Wyoming Range: Little Grey’s River to Pickle Pass

Storms over the forests of the Wyoming Range, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Wyoming (Mike Cavaroc)
Storms over the forests of the Wyoming Range, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Wyoming

Distance (one way): 4 miles
Difficulty: Strenuous
Best time of year: Summer

A water purifier is not something you want to forget on a three-day backpacking trip. A wiser person, upon realizing an essential item was forgotten while still at the car, would have packed everything back up, gone home to retrieve the purifier, then done another trip closer to home, especially if this person hasn’t been able to go hiking much lately. I, however, have stubbornness issues.

Despite being completely unfamiliar with the terrain, particularly with reliable sources of water, I still headed into the Wyoming Mountains with two liters of water to see where that could bring me.

My initial plan was to spend three days backpacking the Little Grey’s River Loop, a hike I had read about that promised solitude, rugged mountain wildness, and wildlife. Eager to explore new territory, I didn’t let a mere two liters of water stop me from heading out. I began from the trailhead at the Little Grey’s River and proceeded toward Pickle Pass, a trail I found to be very unforgiving in terms of elevation gain. The trail ascended nearly from the start and never seemed to let up for the duration of the 3.9 mile ascent, gaining nearly 2,000 feet along the way.

The trail begins paralleling the Little Grey’s River, providing a soothing white noise as you begin your trek. If you time your journey right, you’ll be accompanied by thick meadows of wildflowers, often overtaking the trail itself. It’s not soon after that the trail begins the pattern of thick fields of wildflowers interspersed with welcomed shade from the sporadic evergreen groves.

Silver lupine, giant hyssop, and showy goldeneye wildflowers growing in a meadow, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Wyoming (Mike Cavaroc)
Silver lupine, giant hyssop, and showy goldeneye wildflowers growing in a meadow, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Wyoming

Eventually the evergreen trees give way to a significantly large meadow covering a small valley covered in wildflowers of many different varieties: silver lupine, showy goldeneye, giant hyssop, western coneflower, and the duncecap larkspur, which can easily tower above most people. If you’ve ever wanted to experience hiking through a forest of wildflowers that dwarfs any human, this is the place to do it.

Through the wildflowers, you climb hill after hill, until you crest a ridge: Pickle Pass. Immediately you’ll notice a completely unexpected sight far in the distance: the Teton Mountains towering above the scenery, faded into the background.

Teton Mountains in the distance from Pickle Pass in the Wyoming Mountains, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Wyoming (Mike Cavaroc)
Teton Mountains in the distance from Pickle Pass in the Wyoming Mountains, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Wyoming

A late start combined with incoming clouds factored into my decision to camp at Pickle Pass for the night. The clouds also affected my motivation to stay up to otherwise capture a few new night shots. As the thick blanket was pulled over the area shortly after sunset, I simply went to bed early, curious about what tomorrow would hold.

As I awoke, I checked on the view of the Tetons, disappointed that they had faded farther into the horizon courtesy of some forest fire smoke. Without anything too exciting to photograph, I ate my breakfast, packed up my camp, and proceeded up the trail, hoping to find some running water at a higher elevation.

I made a steep ascent covering roughly a mile to a rather scenic overlook, but was a little discouraged to not hear any running water, nor see any in sight. I studied the map a little harder and noticed that I had two options from this overlook: continue up my planned route, gaining more in elevation where water might be safer, but with no known water for roughly four miles, or, cut downward 2.3 miles toward Roosevelt Meadows where the elevation drops significantly, thus making the water less trustworthy without a purifier. Left with these two options, I created a third: knowing the previous five miles would be nearly all downhill with potentially safe water if I needed it, I could head back to my car, stay healthy, and make other plans for the weekend.

Duncecap larkspur growing on a hillside in the Wyoming Mountains, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Wyoming (Mike Cavaroc)
Duncecap larkspur growing on a hillside in the Wyoming Mountains, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Wyoming

A few hours of enjoyable hiking downhill and I was back at my car, ready to get back to town and properly rehydrate. Given that I was relatively out of shape, though, I was happy I was able to hike nearly ten rugged miles with only two liters of water and never get very dehydrated at all. On top of that, the remoteness and solitude of the Wyoming Mountains will continue to call back to me until I can return for a properly prepared hike. With any luck, my next hike there will be the Wyoming Range National Recreation Trail.

Getting there: From Jackson, follow Highway 89 south out of town, through the Hoback Junction, then the Snake River Canyon and finally to the town of Alpine, Wyoming. Once in Alpine, the highway will come to an intersection where it continues south. Turn left to follow the highway, but you won’t be going far on it from there. Highway 89 will cross the Snake River and in just a few tenths of a mile, you’ll see Grey’s River Road on the left. Turn in there and continue through the Bridger-Teton National Forest boundary which is about a mile down the road, at which point the road turns to a well-packed dirt road. After 7.5 miles, you’ll see Little Grey’s River Road on the left at a relatively significant intersection. Turn left onto that road and continue for another 11.7 miles and you’ll see a right turn for Forest Road 10047, which may or may not be well signed, but will be obvious considering the mileage and relative lack of other options. Take Forest Road 10047 all the way till it dead ends at the trailhead and you’ll see the trail veering off to the north along a hill.

The Reality of a Photo Shoot

Have you ever dreamed about a lovely vacation shooting photos in an exotic location? What is it really like on assignment for a focused, extended photo shoot? I was fortunate to be able to take a multi-week photography assignment in the beautiful spring desert of southern Utah. During the shoot I tried to record activity, conditions, and details of the shooting.  I was on the road for 39 days – 3 for logistics and 36 for travel and shooting. I visited 5 National Parks, 5 National Monuments, 5 National Forests, 4 state parks, 2 scenic byways, 3 scenic back ways, and several undesignated public lands. The total travel was over 4,000 miles – 1,520 in the RV and 2610 in the Jeep – or about 106 miles per day.  I camped in 9 different locations and based the shooting time out of these campgrounds.


Sounds like a lot of fun, right? I was up every day between 4 and 6 AM with the exception of three travel days when I slept-in until about 6:30. While there were good night sky conditions on 9 nights (25%) I had only three night shoots lasting until 11 PM or midnight but this was partially because of the weather. On most days I tried to shoot between around 5 or 6 AM and 10 AM and, often, again between 4 and 9 PM for the best lighting conditions.

Conditions are variable, at best, in the spring desert. On 23 of the nights (64%) the temperature dropped below 35 degrees but that was easy to handle with proper clothing.  The big problem was late afternoon and evening overcast and wind. On 21 of the days (58%) the wind was consistently above 20 mph. On 18 of the days (50%) gusts were above 30 mph. During one dawn shoot the wind in Dead Horse Point State Park was gusting to 57 mph and the temperature at the dawn shoot was 28 degrees – the joys of photography. With gusts to over 50 mph, I could barely keep my tripod upright, much less stable for long-exposure shots.

Good weather is also a problem for a photographer. The skies were gray and overcast during all of the day on 7 days (19%) but actually stormy on only one day (3%.) The sky was a boring, robin egg blue on 23 days (64%) making mid-day photography unproductive. There were “good” clouds on only 5 days (14%.)

As far as photography goes, I shot a total of 4,569 shots during the 36 days of shooting or about 152 shots per day. I had no quota and tried to be relatively selective but yet capture multiple shots of each compelling subject. While I brought my usual cascade of gear including 3 camera bodies, 7 lenses from 17 to 600mm, 2 tripods, 3 light sources (strobe, ring, and LED), multiple filters, plus the usual spare batteries, memory cards, laptop, external hard drive, and endless connectors, I didn’t shoot a single shot with the crop-sensor cameras or the lenses from 300-600mm. This is strange because in my usual wildlife photography around Jackson, I shoot about two-thirds of my shots with a crop sensor body and the 400-600mm lenses. What a difference for landscape work. I shot 3696 shots (81%) using a 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom, 275 shots (6%) with a 17-40mm f/4 wide-angle zoom, 270 shots (6%) with a 70-200mm f/2.8 short telephoto zoom, and the final 328 shots (7%) with the 70-200mm and a 1.4x teleconverter.



On the trip I visited Arches, Canyonlands (Island in the Sky and the Needles districts), Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, and Grand Canyon (north rim) National Parks. The national monuments visited included Natural Bridges, Grand Staircase Escalante, Vermilion Cliffs, Cedar Breaks, and Pipe Springs. The Utah state parks included Dead Horse Point, Newspaper Rock, Coral Pink Sand Dunes, and Kodachrome Basin.  The scenic drives between locations could be destinations in themselves.  I will be placing images of each of the locations in the Galleries under the National Parks and Public Lands tab on this website.

Despite the high winds and cold conditions, it was an experience of a lifetime.  Southern Utah and northern Arizona have together the largest concentration of National Parks, Monuments, and other public lands of any place in the world. While conditions are unbearable for much of the summer and variable during other months, the panoramic vistas, amazing rock formations and bewildering array of flora will provide a desert experience second to none.

 

When you feel the need for speed

I have commented previously about the time spent at a computer in our world of high-resolution digital photography. When I am not out shooting, I am often in the office in Jackson, Wyoming at the computer importing, tweaking, categorizing, editing, and backing up large numbers of digital images.  One of the first things I learned was don’t try to do this on your average laptop.

Today’s high-end digital cameras produce raw file images that easily exceed 25 – 40 megabytes per image. Large multi-layer edits and specialized combined images, like panoramas, can easily kick the file size up to 100 or 200 megabytes or even a gigabyte in size. Handling these huge files takes some serious computing power.

My recommendation for an office / studio computer for high volume editing is a traditional tower computer – usually a high speed model designed for gaming. These gaming PCs have high power processors, lots of memory, a dedicated video processor with additional memory, and high speed peripheral ports to external devices. My office system is based around such a gaming PC and is shown on the cover photo of this post.

Let’s take a look at some of the specs needed to handle today’s large files and editing software. I have a CyperPower PC available from many gaming PC distributors. The heart of this monster is a 4.33 MHz dual-core processor accessing 16 GB of RAM and driving a high speed video card with an additional 2 GB of memory. This is a good kick-start but the real accelerator in the system is a solid-state drive (SSD) that houses all of the operating system and all software. The SSD is between 4 and 10 times faster than the best mechanical hard drive and the speed is evident when you are opening large files. There is a Blu-Ray DVD / CD drive for loading software and burning preview disks for clients.  The traditional 2 TB internal hard drive and 3 cooling fans completes the guts of the tower.

I have chosen USB-3 peripherals. You can use fire-wire and other proprietary connections but I like the ease of use and wide compatibility of the USB connectors. The tower has 2 USB-3s in front and 4 in back along with a few USB-2s for I/O devices like keyboards and tablets.  I chose Logitech wireless wave keyboard and wireless 4-button / wheel mouse for general input and control of the machine. Another port is used for a high speed card reader for my CF and HSSD camera cards.

Also using the USB-3 connectors are a series of external hard drives for back-up and additional archiving of images. I use a pair of 4 TB primary back-up drives, a 2 TB travel drive, and a 1T drive with the SSD image just in case this highly reliable device should fail or be corrupted. Another option is a RAID drive with automatic dual-drive back-up. It is on my wish list but the high cost and lack of higher capacity make me stick with the twin 4 TB externals. When a 16 GB RAID device is available at a reasonable cost, that will be the way to go.

The main editing interfaces are a pair of 27″ ViewSonic high resolution monitors linked by HDMI to the PC. Two large monitors are almost essential to efficient editing. When I am working in Adobe LightRoom, I use the keyboard/mouse with the interface on the right-hand monitor and a full-screen image on the left-hand monitor. This saves constant switching back and forth to full-screen views after each edit. When I need to open PhotoShop for more advanced pixel-level editing, it comes up on the right-hand monitor above the Wacom Intuos-5 digital tablet.  I simply angle my chair a little to the left and pick up the stylus and I am ready to go. When I save the edited image, it drops back into LightRoom on the right-hand monitor and I am ready to move on.

In a nutshell, the keys for efficient digital editing are a high speed processor with lots of RAM and plenty of external disk space for back-ups. Meticulous cataloging and key wording of images and daily back-up of your work should allow you to stay in the field shooting and minimize your time at the computer.

Looking back at 2013

2013 was, by every regard, a banner year for Natural Photography. It was the first full operational year, it was a time for acquiring new, and needed, equipment, gear, and editing software, and it was a year of learning about the region, fellow photographers, and important techniques that will serve me in the future. It was a year of networking with the Teton Photography Group and helping the group mature as an organization. It was a year of monumental wildlife observation and photographic opportunities.

Many people like to look back at the previous year to help plan for the next year. I have observed other photographers posting their “year in review” and decided to look back at 2013 and share a single photograph from each month that had personal meaning to me. These are not necessarily the ‘best’ shots, or the most successful shots in terms of sales, but rather are those that touched me because of where or how they were made.  I hope you enjoy them.

JANUARY


A crisp, sub-zero January afternoon shot looking across Grand Teton National Park taken on the way back home from a day of shooting.

FEBRUARY

A rather angry Trumpeter Swan scooting across Flat Creek on the north side of Jackson.

MARCH

I was walking through the woods along the Gros Ventre River in Grand Teton National Park waiting for a herd of elk to cross the river on their migration north when I was surprised by this touching scene of mom and two calf moose.

APRIL

My first view of the famous grizzly bear #610 only a couple of days after she came out of hibernation with her 3 two year-old cubs and headed for the Snake River in Grand Teton National Park.

MAY

Our second trip of the season to Yellowstone National Park and we were treated to a private showing of the spectacular 309 foot, Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River.

JUNE

 Spring arrives in the back country of Grand Teton National Park and the yellow-belly marmots are out to celebrate the warm sunshine and make me laugh at their antics.

JULY

On a summer trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota, we took a side trip to Wyoming’s Devil’s Tower National Monument and shot the monolith at night with the help of some “light painting” provided by a group of other photographers about 1/2 mile away.

AUGUST

Shopping at the Saturday morning Farmer’s Market in Jackson, we came upon a rare Eurasian owl being shown by a representative of the Teton Raptor Center. I paused for a “selfie” in the reflection in the great bird’s pupil.

SEPTEMBER

A chance of a lifetime came up in the fall when we were asked to help in the Yellowstone Association Bookstore at the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center. We spent almost 7 weeks in the park and found a new viewpoint to enjoy the famous Grand Prismatic Spring in the Midway Geyser Basin.

OCTOBER

On one of our many visits to Yellowstone this year we found a pack of gray wolves near Soda Butte and while watching for nearly an hour, this young black wandered practically up to our Jeep, laid down, and gave his blood-curdling howl to the rest of the pack.

NOVEMBER

Wonders of nature never cease in Jackson, Wyoming. I was in my office editing photos when this poor little Northern Pygmy Owl, chased by a couple of Magpies, crashed into my door. The poor thing was knocked out and on its back and I went out to try to warm it from the cold. It stood up, pupils unequal, and shook its head. Fortunately after about 15 minutes it regained its equilibrium and flew into an Aspen where after about an hour, seemed to recover and flew away.

DECEMBER

The mountain goats of Alpine, Wyoming came down early this year due to heavy October snow and frigid temperatures. More than 30 play along the road and on the cliffs of the Snake River Canyon south of Jackson.

 

More than 25,000 shots taken and almost 20,000 added to my archives in 2013, more than 1,000 new images available on this site and now on Flickr, and these were the 12 with special meaning to me.  Please join us on Facebook for more frequent updates. I hope you enjoyed viewing these images as much as I did making them. Happy 2014.