Category: Free Roaming Photography

Elevation change for the Monument Geyser Basin
Elevation profile and route courtesy of the HAZ Tracks App

Distance: 1.3 miles (one way)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Best time of year: Summer, Fall

The Monument Geyser Basin was previously one of the must-see sights of Yellowstone. Due to fading activity, however, it often goes completely overlooked. The fumaroles aren’t quite as loud and the geysers don’t shoot out as high as they used to. What is still there though are some really unique formations and the opportunity to witness geysers in the process of sealing themselves up. And then there’s also the view.

The trail begins along the Gibbon River and follows it for nearly .5 miles through a young forest burned in the 1988 Fires. It’s an easy jaunt along the calm waters with the highway on the other side, which begs the question: Why did I mark this as strenuous?

The trail makes a sharp turn at roughly the .5 mile mark and answers that question. It steeply ascends up the side of a ridge and doesn’t let up. You’ll gain over 600 feet in the next half-mile as you’re gradually treated to better and better views of the Gibbon Meadows below. Soon Dome Mountain in the north begins to dominate the horizon.

After the ascent, the trail begins to level out and you soon see a great view of the Gibbon River as it winds through the canyon below with the highway running alongside it, most drivers completely oblivious that there’s an overlook there. A short distance farther up the trail is the Monument Geyser Basin. There’s plenty of sinter coating the small saddle on the ridge with the highlight being Monument Geyser itself. Where eruptions used to shoot out up to 10 feet, it now simply spurts water out continuously as it slowly begins to clog itself up with the minerals in the water.

Poke around and enjoy the views, then head back the same way you came in.

Getting there: From the Madison Junction, follow the highway northbound toward Norris. After 8.5 miles, you’ll pass Beryl Spring on the left, and the trailhead parking will be small pullouts on either side of the road. Northbound traffic should park on the other side of the bridge which is right next to the southbound traffic pullout.

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Hiking in Yellowstone National Park can be extremely rewarding for a number of reasons. Most obvious to many people is the quick access away from the crowds. Another is having the opportunity to hike in a pristine wilderness that hasn’t been altered by human hands, and has remained so for centuries. For others, it’s just the opportunity to explore a new wilderness. Whatever the case, hiking in Yellowstone is highly encouraged to get the most out of your visit. At the same time though, there are some important things to know before beginning your trip off of the main roads.

Bear Spray – Carry It. Seriously.

First and foremost, always carry bear spray whenever you’re hiking anywhere in the area, whether it’s Yellowstone or Grand Teton National Park, Shoshone National Forest, the Beartooth Mountains, or anywhere in the region. It’s not a touristy novelty item like some people have horribly surmised. Instead, it’s actually the most effective defense against a charging bear. In the last five years, there were two people that both died from grizzly bears. Neither was carrying bear spray and both went into the backcountry defiantly leaving it behind because they’ve “lived here long enough to know how to act around bears.” That’s not what bear spray is for though. Bear spray is for those unexpected encounters when you don’t have time to do anything else but pull it out and fire.

Because of the ’88 fires, much of the new tree growth is very dense and extremely hard to see around. This is how people surprise bears. It’s recommended you hike with someone, and make noise as you’re hiking. This doesn’t mean excessively yelling and ruining the experience of being out in nature for others on the trail. Having a casual conversation at a normal decibel level is enough to let a bear know you’re in the neighborhood.

Oh yeah, leave the bear bells behind. Bears don’t pay any attention to them and the only thing they’re good for is annoying hikers that know they don’t work.

Mountainous Areas vs Caldera Regions

If it’s big mountainous hikes you’re looking for, you may be a little disappointed if you drive in from the south or west entrances. For those that may or may not already know, Yellowstone is a supervolcano. It last erupted 640,000 years ago, and prior to that 1.3 and 2.1 million years ago in its current area. As a result of all the eruptions, the mountains that were previously there have been completely obliterated. Where the Absaroka Mountains had covered the landscape, a massive volcanic caldera is now in its place. This has left much of the southern part of Yellowstone primarily hilly in nature.

This means if you’re looking for large mountains and canyons to explore, you’re best bet is to stick to the northern and eastern areas of the park. That’s not to say that there’s not a lot to see in the caldera, there’s just not a comparable amount of elevation gain and loss. There are, however, still some amazing features, lakes, and remote geyser basins to be found. Also, with over 1,000 miles of trails in the park, there’s something for everyone, whether you’re looking for a couple of simple walks off the beaten path, or epic multi-day adventures, Yellowstone caters to everyone.

I only bring up these differences so that you’re aware of what kind of terrain you may be planning for.

Boardwalks vs Hiking Trails

Due to the unpredictable nature of the thermal areas of the park, many of the more popular area trails are raised on boardwalks. This is primarily a safety reason, since the constant earthquake activity can cause a once stable area of land to become completely unstable and collapse with a minimal amount of pressure. This has resulted in the park itself having to reroute many different trails and boardwalks frequently. Thus, it is strongly encouraged that you always stay on a boardwalk when one is present. These are typically some of the more visited areas along the roadsides. In essence, the boardwalk trails are intended to be enjoyed by everyone, whereas the hiking trails can range from easy to very strenuous and challenging.

Many hiking trails also lead to backcountry geyser basins. It’s assumed that you will use common sense back there. Some of them will have natural barriers that have been placed there, so you cross them at your own risk, but again, it’s recommended you not do so for your own safety. What could have held a bison one day may not be able to support you the next, and you could wind up scalding yourself to death from steam. The precautions are there for a reason.

Aside from that, the main difference is that the boardwalks are typically in frequently visited geyser basins, whereas hiking trails tend to lead off into a more remote and natural setting. Because the boardwalks are so frequently used, you could probably get away with not carrying bear spray on them, but it’s strongly encouraged you have it always just in case. It’s not uncommon for a grizzly bear to visit the Mud Volcano area, for example.

Also, when on a boardwalk, leave the bacteria mats alone. If you think it’s a good idea to kill a bunch of bacteria by writing your name or some other message that only you’ll understand, then stay off the boardwalk. Similarly, don’t feel the temperature of the water. At worst, you’ll burn your hand. At best, you’ll just be demonstrating how little respect you have for the park and its staff. Enjoy the park for what it is.

Leave No Trace

Anyone with any experience hiking should already be well aware of this policy and practicing it upon any outing. For those that don’t know, Leave No Trace means just that. Leave the area just as you found it. That means packing out any and all trash, which includes fruit peels, toilet paper, food, etc.

But fruit peels are natural. Why pack them out?
The air in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is extremely dry. Unlike in more moist environments, the fruit peel won’t get eaten, and won’t deteriorate at a rate suitable for the soil. It essentially becomes litter, so please pack it out and throw it away once you’re off the trail.

You expect me to carry out my dirty toilet paper?
Yes. Bring a Ziplock bag and make it your trash bag. If that’s too much to ask, then stay off the trails. The last thing anyone wants to see is someone else’s dirty TP. If you try to bury your litter, it will get dug up by an animal and left out near the trail. In addition, you also leave a scent that will attract multiple predatory animals, making the trail unsafe for everyone else.

Stay Hydrated

As mentioned, the air is very dry here. This takes its toll on humans too in the form of dehydration setting in much quicker than many people are used to, also thanks to the high elevation. I’ve literally watched people get sick just from sitting all day because they didn’t drink enough water. Having to go to the bathroom a few more times a day is significantly easier than the alternative.

Get Out of Your Car

Roads are not meant to be the primary vehicle for seeing a national park. Roads are there to access other areas of the park quicker. Parks are meant to be seen on foot (or horse or bicycle).

While visiting Black Sand Basin recently, I watched a car pull into the parking lot and the passenger took a picture of Cliff Geyser as it was erupting, then they drove away. A friend also told me a story of a couple who came back to the Mammoth Hotel, said they drove around the park that day and saw everything, and were wondering if there was anything else to do. In their case, no. They should leave. But if you really want to see the park and experience why it was protected, get out of the car. Walk the boardwalks. Hike a few trails. Read the informational signs that are available. Talk to (and thank) a ranger. Make Edward Abbey proud. That’s how you experience a national park. A car should only be used to get you from one point to another.

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Elevation change on the Swift Creek Hike
Elevation profile and route below courtesy of the HAZ Tracks App

Distance (loop): 18.9 miles
Difficulty: Strenuous
Best time of year: Summer, Fall

The views at the top of Swift Creek, leading to the Crystal Creek and Gros Ventre River headwaters are easily some of the most epic mountain views in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, but it doesn’t come easily. This loop is both extremely rewarding, but equally challenging, making it one of the most enjoyable trails in the Gros Ventre Wilderness.

Many people prefer to hike up the steepest parts and go down the most gradual parts, since it’s typically much easier on your knees. I opted to go that route, heading up Swift Creek, but certainly the better way for increasingly better views and scenery would be to go the opposite way, heading toward Shoal Falls and up Shoal Creek, then connecting with the Swift Creek Trail to descend. Having rushed through part of this trail, and also having apparently missed a turn taking me on a slight detour, I expect to hike this again next summer that way. However, since I hiked it going from Swift Creek to Shoal Creek, that’s how I’ll be describing it.

A Word of Warning

It is highly recommended that you bring along a good topo map. There are a few places where the trail disappears and cairns are required for finding your way, and there’s more than one cairn trail in the vicinity, so following the right one is crucial. Signage is also inconsistent. There are also a few forks (one of which I apparently missed) which will keep you on the proper route so you can experience the trail as best as possible. Finally, this trail is not at all intended for novice hikers, unless you have an experienced hiker with you who can help guide you through the tricky spots. Either way, be ready for lengthy, steep ascents and lots of exposure to the sun.

On With the Trail

From the parking area, head toward Swift Creek to the north where a dirt road with a “Road Closed” sign is in place just before a bridge crossing the creek. After the creek, only a couple of dozen yards up, look for the trail to veer off to the right from the dirt road. If you miss it, you won’t be on the trail.

After strolling through a large meadow, you soon begin gaining elevation as the trail pops in and out of small meadows and forests as you climb with Swift Creek, occasionally crossing over it. After crossing the creek farther up the trail, you’ll notice a well-trodden trail heading off to the right. This is an unmaintained trail heading up to McLeod Lake, well off of this route, so continue straight. The trail soon begins its steep ascent up into the canyon where Swift Creek originates. For the most part, this trail is well-forested with limited views for a couple of miles.

At roughly mile 3.8, the trail finally begins to flatten out to give you a break from climbing as you emerge into a meadow where there’s even a camping spot. Enjoy it while it lasts though. Just up the trail, the trail begins another very steep climb. Watch your footing too. On multiple occasions the ground gave out from under me, the dirt completely slipping from under my feet.

For the next mile or so, the trail will continue to flatten out and climb steeply while the views finally begin to open up. The massive peaks and canyon walls surrounding you begin to appear as the trees slowly become more sporadic and short. The views to the south also open up as fantastic views of the Wyoming Range begin to emerge. If nothing else, the views certainly make for great excuses to catch your breath.

At mile 4.8 or so, you begin to reach the treeline where views to the west are dominated by Antoinette Peak. After a bit more pushing and climbing, you finally reach the divide where all your hard work and effort are payed off in a breathtaking view of the Gros Ventre Wilderness ahead of you. A massive basin is below where Crystal Creek begins its journey toward the Gros Ventre River, which, interestingly enough, is beginning its journey just a mile to the east. The entire view is filled with large alpine peaks and great forested valleys. It’s truly one of the best sights to behold in the Gros Ventre Wilderness and beyond.

If you were only out for the day, this is where you’ll want to poke around, have a meal, and then head back down before taking in all the views one last time.

As for me, I went up with the intent to camp up there, and that’s just what I did. My main goal was in hoping for continued northern lights activity from the night before, and also just to experience the night sky in such a remote place. I stayed up into the darkness to see just how brilliant the Milky Way could shine, and it didn’t disappoint! For those with a little camera knowledge, the area was so dark that I was able to crank up my Canon 5D Mark III’s ISO to 10,000 without producing more than a minimal amount of noise. As for the northern lights, they weren’t out by the time I was ready for bed. However in checking the data later the next day, they were out in the middle of the night. Serves me right for not doing a time-lapse up there just for the fun of it. Lesson learned!

I woke up the next day after sunrise unfortunately and expecting a mellow day, took my time getting back on the trail. In looking at where I was to go next on the map, I realized a had a big problem: I brought along the wrong map. I had three options:

Elevation change on the Shoal Creek Hike
Elevation profile and route below courtesy of the HAZ Tracks App

1. Play it safe and head back out
2. Keep my camp as a base camp and explore the area, then head out the next day
3. Be stubborn and complete the trail, assuming that I would find the remaining route

I’m pretty stubborn in the backcountry, so I went with #3. I packed up after breakfast, and made my way over the next divide, but not before being treated to a glimpse of the highest Teton Peaks peeking over the mountains to the northwest.

Over the next divide, I stood there overlooking the headwaters of the Gros Ventre River, completely blown away by how vast, intense, and grand the scenery became. I immediately began wondering if I should spend my next night in this area. In hindsight, that probably would have been the better choice, but I was eager to continue on and see more.

Heading up to the divide, the trail fades in and out and is assisted by an easy set of cairns. As the trail climbs over the divide with Black Peak emerging to your left, the trail becomes much more obvious, with a couple of large signs pointing out different destinations. One will even direct you down toward Shoal Lake, but shortly thereafter, the trail becomes a long series of cairns as it traverses over a large alpine basin, hopping over various creeks that all help to create the Gros Ventre River.

It was along this stretch that I didn’t notice the trail fork, and wound up going slightly out of my way. Following the cairns through a large flat area, I noticed a path leading off to the right over a ridge. My curiosity was piqued, so I went to go check it out. As I reached the crest of the ridge, I saw the trail dropping into a large canyon, but which canyon? I took out my phone hoping for a signal and was actually able to get one! I downloaded a topo map on my phone and noticed that this spur trail that I had scoped out was actually the Shoal Lake Trail that I wanted to be on. Following the cairns would have taken me much farther east to Dell Creek, and significantly off my path. Thank you technology! Looking back, I noticed a series of cairns leading back a different route from where I had come from.

The trail begins a quick descent down toward a small pond with bright blue-green water reflecting the peaks. Passing around another bend from that, Shoal Lake emerges far below a couple of switchbacks, offering only a few teasing glimpses. It’s not until you’re much closer to it that it’s actually able to show off its magnificence, surrounded by tall Gros Ventre Mountain peaks. The shores beg to be rested at, especially a small cluster of trees at the southeast end of the lake shielding a nice small outcropping of boulders ideal for sitting on just after you cross over the runoff.

Beyond Shoal Lake, the trail begins a long descent farther into a large mountainous canyon, passing through many forests and meadows. At one point farther down, the trail winds down a steep ridge, exposing a couple of dramatic waterfalls on the other side of the canyon. The trail continues its lengthy descent and ultimately brings you to the top of some high grassy hills.

There were two things at this part that I missed. One was a place to camp, another was the proper fork to access Shoal Falls directly. According to a map I referenced after the hike, there should have been another trail in this area connecting me directly to the falls, but I completely missed it. This took me on an extra mile or so detour, bypassing the falls. I was unaware of this at the time, and instead focusing mainly on finding a campsite. However this late in the season, the hills were completely blanketed in dry vegetation of different grasses and wildflowers anywhere from a couple of feet high to several feet high. As I continued down the trail, I found a fork marked by an unmarked post. Wondering if that could have been the original fork I was looking for, I decided to scope it out and then saw Shoal Falls in the distance, about another mile or so to the north, and much bigger and more grand than I had expected. I continued on that path and came to another fork, pointing me north toward Shoal Falls with left heading out back toward the trailhead. With no place to camp in sight, and realizing I had what I thought were only a few miles left, I made the poor decision to just head back to the car without checking out Shoal Falls. It was at this point in hindsight where camping up at the Gros Ventre River headwaters would have been the much better idea. After admiring some beaver dams and ponds downstream from the falls below the trail, I crossed over the creek and began a rather brutal 700 foot climb up a hill.

After crossing the creek, the trail relentlessly climbs up the side of the hill to the west of Shoal Creek. Views become more plentiful and scenic the higher you climb until the trail finally levels out at a pleasantly shaded grove to rest in.

It was here that I realized I was much lower on water than I had thought and I had completely neglected to check after crossing the creek, now far below. I was feeling dehydrated and as a result, was experiencing the “I just wanna be out” feeling, unfortunately the exact opposite of that morning, and never how I want to be feeling on a trail. Fortunately, it was only another mile and a half to the next creek, mostly a gradual downhill, where I was able to rehydrate and take a much needed rest before the last stretch.

From the top of the hill, the trail begins a gradual descent through meadows, forests, and aspen groves, often providing great views of the peaks to the north. It makes a small dip to pass over a creek before making a small ascent back up. As the trail starts to descend more consistently, it enters into an old forest dense with evergreen trees. In continues this descent through the forest for the next couple of miles, bringing you to a fork to either head back up Swift Creek (just in case you want to try the loop again), or back to the trailhead parking. From there, it’s only .5 miles back to the parking area where the loop is completed.

A Few Things I Learned

1. Bring the right map. You’ll need it.
2. Though possible in two days, or even one, this loop is best experienced over two nights.
3. The loop probably unfolds better heading to Shoal Falls first, then up Shoal Creek and down Swift Creek.

I also hiked this trail at probably the least scenic time to be hiking it and was still blown away. All the wildflowers and ground vegetation were dried out and dead, but only a fraction of the aspens were beginning to change. To really get the most out of this trail, either hike this in early August when wildflowers are peaking, or in mid-to-late September when the fall colors are peaking, provided you can stay warm enough.

Getting there: From Jackson, take Highway 89 south for about 13 miles to the Hoback Junction where you’ll take a roundabout. Pass the exit for Alpine and take Highway 191 down toward Pinedale. Continue on that road for about 11.4 miles and just before the highway crosses the Hoback River again, you’ll see Granite Creek Road on your left. Take that road and continue on it for about 7.6 miles, which will roughly follow Granite Creek the entire way. Be sure to avoid the road following Little Granite Creek. At 7.6 miles, you’ll come out of some trees and there will be an immediate right turn pointing toward the trailhead, as well as a nearby ranch. Follow that across the creek, and when the road forks, head left and you’ll see the trailhead parking.

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I was recently hiking on some unmaintained trails in Grand Teton National Park hoping for some wildlife encounters since there were plenty of ripe berry bushes at this particular location. Given the opportunities, I was specifically hoping for some bear and elk, knowing both were in the area.

I had been hiking for roughly a mile, but hadn’t seen any wildlife yet, and found myself exploring a new trail I hadn’t been down before. There were lots of downed trees in one location and visibility was fairly limited in my immediate surroundings. Of course it’s recommended that people make noise to scare away wildlife, but I didn’t want to scare it away. I wanted to see it. I also feel comfortable enough with my knowledge of wildlife to avoid any unfortunate encounters, and I had my bear spray as a last resort, which is its intended use anyway.

I began to notice that even though I had knowledge of the area and knowledge of the wildlife I was likely to see, there was still fear running through me. I began to dig a little deeper into the feeling. I realized it wasn’t the kind of fear that says, “This is a bad idea and I shouldn’t be here.” It simply seemed to be more along the lines of, “Be alert.”

Many people live their lives in the comforts of their home, eliminating any form of fear that comes their way, something I can hear reflected in the comments of guests I take out on wildlife safaris. When these types of people come to visit an area rich in wildness like Jackson Hole, they can’t tell the difference between the “bad idea” fear, and the “be alert” fear. Both should always be listened to, but both yield completely different results. For those who can’t tell the difference, however, it often leads to uncomfortable situations for others who encounter them along the trail.

This was made annoyingly obvious to me as I was introducing a friend that was relatively new to the area to the Amphitheater Lake Trail a couple of years ago. The trail is a favorite of mine because of its dramatic views over the valley and its grand reward at the end: Amphitheater Lake tucked away in a mountainous, rocky bowl below the Grand Teton. I did not enjoy the hike on this particular day though. We caught up to a group of people who were blaring music from their cell phones audible from nearly half a mile away for the entirety of their hike. Knowing we’d be keeping pace with them, we stopped and let them get ahead, taking an unnecessary break so they could gain a substantial distance. Unfortunately, it wasn’t the last time we encountered them.

They were simply experiencing the “Be alert” fear, but had absolutely no idea how to cope with it. Their solution was to drown out any chance of allowing the natural world to penetrate, and thus inspire them. Unbeknownst to them, they completely missed the entire point of their hike and most likely went away experiencing a fraction, at best, of what they could have. In the process, they distracted and annoyed everyone else out on a relatively crowded trail who was hoping to see and hear all nature had to offer and to get away from technology and artificial sounds.

The same fear was the undoing for a beloved grizzly bear in the area. Grizzly Bear #587, one of the first cubs of the famous Grizzly Bear #399, was living peacefully in northern Grand Teton National Park and the Teton Wilderness. On occasion, he was known to pass through the Pacific Creek neighborhood, a secluded and remote development miles away from any civilization, even as the crow flies. Most residents didn’t mind him passing through, as was typical for other bears, wolves, elk, moose, and all sorts of other wildlife. According to a Jackson Hole News & Guide article, “Residents of the neighborhood said 587 was guilty only of being there.” Yet new residents to the neighborhood took one look at him and completely panicked. <sarcasm>How could this wild grizzly bear have gotten into a secluded remote, mountain development?</sarcasm> They took it upon themselves to deal with the situation, immediately calling the authorities to have the native resident removed, rather than taking the time to ask neighbors about the actual danger, or to even educate themselves on how to coexist with natural inhabitants of the land. Later, Grizzly Bear #587 was found preying on cattle, but not by breaking into anyone’s private land. These cattle were the product of welfare ranching: openly grazing on public lands where wild animals freely roam. Not knowing the area, this was the easiest prey he could find in a foreign environment, and was subsequently put to death for following his instincts.

The person to blame was so against experiencing fear of any form, that they took it upon themselves to (and may still) alter anything in their surroundings to make them feel more comfortable, no matter how many lives it takes.

Though many people do their best to eliminate this fear from their lives, it’s actually one of the most valuable feelings to experiencing life in a richer and more fulfilling way. Those not experiencing it are living a tame, almost numb form of life that prevents a true feeling of being alive from manifesting. After all, you couldn’t truly know happiness if you didn’t have sadness and boredom to compare it to. Without knowing fear, you can’t really feel its opposite of being ecstatically alive.

I continued hiking along that unknown trail. A squirrel would scurry through the brush, its sound amplified by the fear. Birds would fly to and from branches, their sounds amplified even more since they were initially out of sight. It was a growing tension and fear that actually felt good to feel, though I began to feel sorry for people that never allow those feelings in. In a short walk, tucked away in a forest with no exceptionally majestic sights to see, I was potentially feeling more alive than someone hiking high up in the Tetons surrounded by a cathedral of granite.

As I hiked along that trail, not knowing what, if anything, was around the next corner and pondering these thoughts, I couldn’t help but smile. I was feeling fear, but it was keeping me alert. A better word would be ‘aware,’ something easily lost in the day-to-day routine that I had been experiencing too often this summer. The more aware you are of your surroundings through your own senses, the more likely you are to have a rewarding experience, both in the short and long-term. It builds up your awareness of your surroundings and of what you’re capable of feeling and experiencing. Feeling and embracing fear is one step to living that more regularly.

Of course not knowing how to cope with fear is a lot better than not even knowing you have fear.

Ultimately, I saw two black bears on that hike once I had wound back to the Snake River. I came upon one a few dozen yards away who was (mutually) surprised by my presence and began to move off. Wanting to know if I had completely scared it off, I moved in a circular pattern from where it last was, ultimately reaching the river to see clearer. About 100 yards away, I saw a black bear walking down toward the water to get a drink. I was very confused at this point because it didn’t look like the bear had moved that quickly. I took a few steps up the river to get a better look, and on the other side of a tree next to me I saw that I was actually next to the first bear I had seen. Up the river I had seen a completely different bear quenching its thirst. Knowing I was pushing my luck at this point, my thumb hovering over the bear spray trigger, I backed away and gave it its space as it studied my movements. Satisfied with the distance I had given it, it walked into the brush and began eating on the berries that were readily available, but out of any good potential angles for shots. With both bears now a safe distance away, I sat by the river to enjoy the scenery for a while, then headed back to my car to go home, satisfied by a fulfilling day, despite not getting any shots of wildlife.

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