Here Today, Gone to Maui!

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A Jackson Hole resident magically morphs into a Maui tourist.

Waterfalls

I had to put the “shoe on the other foot” and become a tourist for about 10 days. I’m not used to it! When heading out in the mornings in Jackson Hole, I usually live up to my old Eagle Scout motto: “Be Prepared”! I take everything I think I might need—and sometimes two of everything. Here in the Tetons, I get the luxury of going to a spot over and over until the light and the clouds cooperate. I have all year. Tourists come and go here like the waves on the beach there. I get to pick the best times of the day and the best times of the year. Like I said, it’s a luxury.

Fishermen

I have enough camera gear to fill a van. When I packed my gear to go to Maui, I probably had to make similar decisions people have to make if they get on a plane to fly to Jackson Hole and Yellowstone. Some people coming here have their prime lenses shipped to a trusted friend in the valley. I didn’t have that option, however. In reality, packing was probably easier for me because I was only going there for “vacation” time and vacation photos. I doubt I’ll ever sell one, nor use the images for anything much more than a blog post. Some people coming to the northwest corner of Wyoming probably need and want the very best images they can capture, so they need their pro gear.

Fiery Sunset

The day before we headed out, I grabbed my small camera bag. Naturally, I have two, but I didn’t think the bigger one would fit in the overhead compartment. There was no way I wanted to check the photo gear. By the time I zipped it up, the poor thing was stuffed. It did fit in the overhead compartment—and it made the trip with no problems!

Windsurfer

I would have loved to have taken the 200-400mm lens and the 70-200 mm lens, not to mention the regular 24-70 mm workhorse lens and my wide angle 14-24mm lens. I would have loved to have taken my Gitzo tripod, ball head, and Wimberley Sidekick. I chose to take my Nikon D4 body and the all around Nikon 28-300 mm zoom lens. It’s not quite as sharp as my other pro lenses, but it’s lightweight and does a very good job. The tripod was another issue. Before I left for Hawaii, I took my Arca-Swiss ball head off my tripod and found a corner for it in the bag…just in case.

Fiery Sunset

My wife, Darla, and I went light. I had one small suitcase and one camera bag. She had a handbag and purse to carry on the plane and one mid-sized suitcase. Our friends met us at the airport and saw our “load” and said, “That’s it?” Of course, they had three or four big bags each, some of which contained computers, snorkel gear, and other “essentials” for a trip to Maui.

Palm Trees

So, I went to Maui without a tripod. Oh, that hurts to think about it—especially knowing I hardly ever take a shot without one! I got up before sunrise the first morning and took photos hand held, then knew I’d be buying “some kind of tripod”. That turned out to be a good call, and I know I’ll use it some other day. Now, I have three tripods instead of just one and a backup.

Hana Sunrise

The tripod I purchased came with a lightweight ball head. I pulled my Arca-Swiss Z1 ball head out of the bag and replaced the small one. The D4 seemed to be happier on the heavier ball head. I used the tripod for my morning and evening landscapes, long exposures on the waterfalls, a few remote controlled family shots, and several night images.

Giant Sea Turtle

Maui doesn’t have a lot of wildlife—above water anyway. But then, it does have killer sunrises and sunsets. Stunning, in fact! If I could have squeezed it in, I would have loved to taken my 35 megapixel D800 body and my pro model 24-70mm lens for the morning and evening shots. And, there were a few times, I longed for the reach of 400mm on my 200-400mm zoom lens. Those occasions would have probably been limited to the shooting at the ocean of the surfers and later with some of the birds. The 28-300mm VR lens worked fine, however, and it focuses amazingly close!

Night Bonfire

This was my first trip to Hawaii. I suspect I went through much of the same experiences people have when they come to Jackson Hole for the first time. If you do your homework by going through some of the pages on this blog, you’d be far ahead of the others that don’t! Let’s say I went to Maui in the latter shoes. I didn’t have a clue about any of it—other than I knew there’s an ocean, sand, waves, and some lush forests. I picked up some of the many travel brochures and trip guides and studied them…just like people do here. I certainly felt like a tourist, made worse by my snow white legs and chest when on the beach. Oh well.

Night in the Bay

I was out before daylight on most mornings after scouting out locations during the afternoon hours the day before. Darla and the rest of the group were just waking up and finishing their coffee when I’d drag in from the early morning shooting.

Underwater Sea Turtle

Above the water, I can’t say too many things were that different as they relate to photography.  Underwater photography…well that’s a different proposition entirely! A friend let me use an underwater camera for one of the dives. It wasn’t easy for me because I was having to learn to breath through a snorkel and take photos with a foreign camera at the same time.

Beachcombing

Just like visitors to the Tetons on a four or five day trip, I had to accept the conditions of the morning, day or evening. It seems the mornings and evenings are usually spectacular there, especially knowing you can look another direction if it isn’t great in the other one. Still, if it was raining when we went to a specific waterfall, that’s just the way it was going to be. There was usually no going back for another chance. Sometimes, people come here for four or five days and never see the Teton Range. I suspect some people never see the top of the Haleakala Crater either.

Cardinals

Before it was all over, we made the drive around the entire island and we spent a lot of time along the ocean. We got to snorkel in two places. We saw the giant sea turtles, both on the beach and under water. We saw surfers, boarders, wind surfers, and kite sailors.

Poinsettia and Bee

We spent money like tourists, had a great time at the Halloween event, and ate some wonderful food. I had at least a hint of a tan when I made it off the plane.

Tree

I saw things in Maui I’ve never see here. It was a feast for the eyes! But then, someone from Hawaii might be equally impressed by our wildlife and snow.

Textured Leaf

Just about anywhere you turn, there’s some sort of potential subject! My D4 ended up with around 6000 actuations added to it, virtually filling every CF card I took with me.

Sunset in Maui

I hope to get to go back someday!

Maui

After returning home, Darla wanted me to make a book to document our vacation. I spent a few days creating it and then published it through Blurb. If you’d like to view the book, click the thumbnail cover image and flip through the pages. (Hit the four way arrow in the lower right corner to make it fill your entire screen and then hit the ESC button to go back to regular view)  There are a lot more images in the book!

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If you are planning a trip to Jackson Hole, bring as much of your gear as you can! It’s a great place for landscapes, nightscapes, wildlife, and close-up photography—and that’s not counting all of the possibilities for outdoor sports and activities! I’d suggest bringing lots of memory cards and a tripod! Of course, spend some time going through the posts at Best of the Tetons for a huge head start. If you’d like to go with me on a one-on-one photo excursion here in the Tetons, click the link for more info! No matter how you get here and how much gear you bring, I hope you have an equally rewarding experience.

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January 2015 Daily Updates & Photos for Grand Teton National Park & JH:

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A monthly journal of wildlife reports, scenic opportunities, and tidbits for both photographers and Teton visitors!

Recent Daily Updates Archives:

Jan: 2015  |  Dec: 2014  |  Nov: 2014 Oct: 2014  |  Sept: 2014  |  Aug: 2014  |  July: 2014  |  June: 2014  |  May: 2014  |  Apr: 2014  |  Mar: 2014  |  Feb: 2014  |  Jan: 2014 |  Dec: 2013 | Nov: 2013  | Oct: 2013  | Sept: 2013  | Aug: 2013  |

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January Header

January Overview:

Swan PlatformMost of the winter months offer similar opportunities for both wildlife and landscapes: Dec: 2013Jan: 2014 Feb: 2014 . Also check out: The Dead of Winter: The Cold Realities and Exciting Possibilities of Winter Photography in GTNP.

Suggested “Opportunities”: Right now, here are my top spots to check out, especially for wildlife.  Some will be a bit of a gamble, but they might also pay off in a big way if you hit it right:

Important Winter Links

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Oldie But Goodie Post of the Day

The Dead of Winter:The Dead of Winter: This is a relatively recent post, but it pertains to current opportunities for the month of January.

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Artists and Sculptors

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January 1, 2015

New Years Fireworks

Torch ParadeNew Years Fireworks: Last night, I drove out to Teton Village to photograph the torch light parade and fireworks. Since I’ve never been to this spot on New Years, I wasn’t sure where the skier would come down, and was not sure if they’d shoot the fireworks off at the same spot as they did on the 4th of July. It was around -14°F when I parked the van along the highway.

At the Teton Village torch light parade, the riders are already at the top of the mountain on Apre Vous peak. At 6:00 PM, on New Year’s Eve, the stream of skiers carrying torches begin to snake down the mountain. If I get to go back next year, I’d start with a 70-200mm to zoom in slightly.

Last summer, I was able to move close to the barbed wire fence and shoot from “under” a power line that runs along the highway. Last night, I found a large berm of snow piled up in that spot, eliminating that option for the night. I ended up shooting from the road. The spot was actually a good one, but there’s a couple of power lines in the images if you look closely. There might be a better spot. Maybe I’ll go out earlier next year and spend some time looking for it.

Skiers worked their way to the bottom as you can see in the small photo above. After the last skier reached the bottom, the fireworks began.

Teton Village

The fireworks display lasted a quite a while with plenty of explosions going off regularly. Still, the entire event was overall quick and efficient—which is good knowing it was so cold.

Snow King Fireworks

Snow King Fireworks: After leaving the JH Mountain Resort, I headed on home, but when I made it back to town, I noticed a few skiers still going up the lift. At Snow King, all of the skiers started at the bottom. After lighting their flares, chair after chair carried skiers up the mountain. At the base of the mountain, hundreds of spectators lined up to watch the event. I don’t know the actual number, but it appeared there were 150 skiers, maybe more. Eventually, all of them make it to the top and they begin their descent. The skiers split up and snaked down a couple of different runs before gathering at the base. Fireworks followed.

The image above is a composite of five or six shots. Four or five fireworks blasts are layered over the base layer with the spectators and string of skiers.

Single Capture

Snow King Fireworks Diplay: This is a single capture: Aperture Priority: 2.5 seconds, ISO 500, F/11, 28mm with a 24-70mm lens on a Nikon D4.

Teton Range January 1

Teton Range January 1: Taken from the Elk Refuge Road near the Miller House.

Sleeping Indian and Rising Moon

Sleeping Indian and Rising Moon: Taken from the Elk Refuge Road. If you checked out yesterday’s Daily Update (Dec: 2014), I mentioned going to the National Elk Refuge and didn’t see a single Bighorn. At about the same time of the day today, I went to the same place and found four or more groups of around 10-12 Bighorns scattered along the road.

Boyle's Hill Swan Pond

Boyle’s Hill Swan Pond: Flat Creek is frozen, so quite a few Trumpeter Swans are at Boyle’s Hill for some free food and open water.

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Happy 2015!  I’d like to take a second and say THANKS to all the people coming here daily or weekly, along with the readers that make comments here! And SPECIAL THANKS to all that have signed up to follow the blog. I hope to continue to add a variety of  “content” for all of 2015. Even if you aren’t planning an immediate trip to the Tetons, hopefully I can include information that can help you back at your home town. Lastly, if you like what you’ve been seeing, I’d appreciate it if you help me spread the word about the site!

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Winter Night Life in Downtown Jackson Hole:

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Tourists doing what tourists do!

During the holiday season, the downtown merchants decorate their storefronts with lights and boughs of spruce and pine. The town government wraps the trees and antler arches in the square with thousands of LED lights. On any given night, you can find tourists and a few locals milling around in downtown Jackson. They will be window shopping, eating, and generally having a good time. Numerous shops stay open late to cater to the visitors. I like to go downtown a few times each winter and try to capture some of the ambiance and “action”. As the night progresses, the families head back to their hotel or condo and the party crowds begin taking their places. I have a great time taking the photos, and if nothing else, readers at Best of the Tetons can get a quick glimpse of the night life and lights in downtown Jackson during the busy and festive holiday season.

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Photo Review. The guy took a shot of the girl and then the two checked it out. (1/50th second)

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Dad and Stroller. This one has a very short pan to try to keep the face in focus. Doing so slightly blurs the lights.  (1/20th second)

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A Ghost Crossing. The town leaves the lights on the Square up well into January. Similar to the last image, this one has a short pan and a fast moving, close subject. (1/8th second)

Street Crossing

Festive Street Crossing. This scene is repeated hundreds of times nightly at each corner. I prefer going out for shots like this following a good snowfall. As you can see, the ground is white, picking up light from the various sources and allowing subtle details to emerge that would be lost if the streets and walkways are dark. (1/30th second)

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Zoomed Neon Sign. Exposed neon is against the town sign ordinance except for a few historic old signs like the one over the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. (.4 second)

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Zoomed Classic Bulbed Sign.  I angled this one a bit and zoomed over a longer exposure. (.4 second)

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Posers! Good times in Jackson Hole. Occasionally, they see me set up across the street and willingly express their approval. (1/15th second)

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Antler Arches: I added Topaz Star Effects in post production. I’ve taken similar photos before using a star filter on the lens at the time of capture. (1/2th second)

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Out of Focus Arch: Experimental shot of the NW arch. (1/4th second)

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Standard Shot of Antler Arches with Posing Tourists. It seems just about every tourist stops to get their shot under one of the four antler arches. (1/5th second)

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I Love Big Tetons. This shot is even more funny if you know the French translation for Tetons. (1/20th second)

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Youngsters Inside. I was standing outside Lee’s Tees and swung my camera around to capture these two young girls.  (1/50th second)

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Father and Son. All you have to do is set up at about any corner and wait. The subjects magically appear! This Dad told me he had a D3s and would like to get a D4 or D4s. (1/30th second)

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Thumbs Up. Another typical group photo under the arches. (1/13th second)

Shooting Info: I set up a tripod to help with the very slow shutter speeds, then just worked my way around the square. These images were captured with a Nikon D4 and a 70-200mm lens.  I usually keep the ISO relatively low (400-640) and concentrate more on the essence of the shot and not so much on whether they are tack sharp. Some are taken at speeds as low as 1/4th of a second with the lens wide open at F/2.8. I like to let people walk through the lights. If I do it right, I get a recognizable human figure with just the right amount of motion blur. In between the tourist shots, I also like to experiment on photos of the neon signs and downtown lights. I took all of these images on a cold, clear night. I’d like to go back another night and shoot similar images during a snow storm. There might be less people out, but the shots could be very interesting.

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Note: These are candid images taken from the streets of Jackson Hole. If anyone sees a photo of themselves or family members that you would prefer not to be displayed, please let me know and I will remove it immediately.

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Here are a few earlier Feature Posts from Downtown Jackson:

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The Dead of Winter:

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The Cold Realities and Exciting Possibilities of Winter Photography in GTNP.

There are generally two entities at play. First: The weather. Snowfall, cold temperatures and short days are big players. Second: The National Park Service and Bridger-Teton National Forest. They establish closure rules and decide which roads are plowed. I guess you could suggest a third one might be the lack of demand or volume of tourists, but that would probably be a stretch.

Elk Running

This is my second Winter season writing posts for Best of the Tetons. There are numerous related posts specifically written about the season along with the associated Daily Updates pages. (Check the links at the bottom of the page).  The purpose of this Feature Post is to concentrate on the span of time from mid-December to early April.  That’s when most of the region is firmly in the grip of the winter snow pack and when many access roads are cut off.  It is also when large chunks of the area are closed to human activity for wildlife protection and habitat.

SRO December 2014

Snake River Overlook is open year round. It is one of the few winter locations where you can get a good foreground and a vista view. In years past, many people took photos over the beautiful old buck rail fences in front of Triangle X Ranch, but last year, the Park Service tore them down and replaced them with a rather ugly barbed wire fence. It’s just not the same!

Schwabacher Landing is a great area to use as an example for this post. It is one of the most popular areas of the park when it’s open. Countless thousands of photos are taken there every single day. After the first good snowfall, the Park Service locks the gate. Several areas, like Schwabacher Landing and Antelope Flats Road are gated as soon as weather conditions make it dangerous or if the road becomes impassable. Schwabacher can close as early as Thanksgiving or even before. The area is still open until December 15th, but you have to hike in from the highway. There isn’t much of a parking area at the top of the hill, so except for a few hardy souls, you might call it closed.

November 24, 2006

After December 15th, no activity is allowed in the river bottom (North of Moose) at all. While that might sound like a loss, I don’t really think of it that way. The pond and streams at Schwabacher Landing would have already frozen over, eliminating most reflections. It still might be photogenic, but not in the same way as summer and fall. Additionally, almost all wildlife will have left the area, moving south towards the Gros Ventre River or into the National Elk Refuge. Snow is simply too deep for them.

Peach House with Aspen Trees

The Moose-Wilson Road is still open from Moose to the Death Canyon road junction. I drive that three or four mile section several times each Winter. In much the same way, you learn quickly we are not missing that much by not having access to some of the other areas. The snow is deep and there are few animals. You can strap on your snow shoes and hike around in many areas, but scenic vistas are limited there. Great Gray Owls and Horned Owls “could” be there, but I never see them. Snow is too deep for them to hunt for active mice and voles. They move to areas of the valley where they can dive through the snow to the unsuspecting prey.

Sunrise Over Sleeping Indian 2

Three major arteries are severed during the “dead of Winter”. Actually, one of them closes from November 1st to May 1st. The Teton Park Road (Inner Park Loop Road) closes at the Taggart Lake trail head to Signal Mountain resort area. The Park Service closes the road to vehicle travel during those dates regardless of whether there is any snow on the road or issues of through travel. The other artery is Antelope Flats Road. It closes following the first big snow after hunting season. This year, the road was locked sometime in the week prior to Christmas.  The Moose-Wilson road also closes between November 1st and May 1st between the Death Canyon road junction and the South entrance station near Teton Village. A lot of smaller side roads are closed, but those three effectively create a series of one-way-up and one-way-back trips. Cross country skiing and show shoe travel is still permitted in all three areas.

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The weather is also a factor. During this period, there will almost always be a layer of snow on the ground. Jackson Hole can get 400″ of snowfall during a winter. It takes snow shoes or cross country skis to get around if you want to leave the roads. That’s plenty doable. But, it can be cold…brutally and dangerously cold! Wind can multiply the effect. Winter is often harder on equipment, especially batteries! This page has a few maps, closure areas, and some tips for winter photography: Winter in the Tetons: Tips for travel and photography.

Fly Fishing Snake River March 8

So, why come here in the Winter?

Hoar Frost

It could easily sound like there are just too many cards stacked against a visitor or photographer. Winter photography is not for everyone! It is usually harder. It’s colder. It’s often less predictable. But, the “dark clouds can have a silver lining”.  There are far fewer photographers out taking photos on any average winter day. When you find something good, there won’t be a lot of other people taking the same images. The landscape itself is entirely different than during the green days of summer, or even the golden days of fall. Days are short, so you don’t have to get up as early or stay out as late. Light is usually good for photography all of the daylight hours, a result of the sun being low in the sky. Sunrise and sunsets can last a little longer for the same reason. Some animals hibernate, but the remaining wintering wildlife is pressed into much smaller areas—and some of those areas are right next to the road. I live in town, so knowing the much of the wildlife is in the south end of the valley, I don’t have to drive as far as in the summer. That saves time and gasoline.

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During the spring and summer, many of the large animals shed their winter coat. Moose, deer, foxes, sheep, elk, bison, and so forth can look terribly shaggy and unappealing for a whole month. During the winter months, the coats on the same animals are bright, long, and sometimes flowing.

Sleigh Ride

I can get “tunnel vision” at times and forget there many more attractions in the valley, like downhill skiing, snowboarding, cross-country skiing, shoe shoeing. snowmobiling, sled dog tours, sleigh rides, and…well the list goes on and on! I write this blog for all, so I try to include the other activities on the blog once in a while whether I am a participant or just a viewer. I titled this post “The Dead of Winter”, but Jackson Hole is far from dead in the Winter!

Otter Family

The “Tapestry of the Seasons”: As the preceding paragraph suggests, there’s a lot to see and do here. As the last of the leaves fall to the ground in the fall, the area begins its transition into winter. The landscape changes—sometimes overnight—and sometimes gradually. Wildlife opportunities often occur or unfold like chapters in a book. One heats up as other opportunities cool down. Some overlap. For example, I spend a lot of time photographing moose in the fall. I love it! But, in other areas of the park, elk are in their rut period and bears are just finished polishing off the last of the berries. An owl might make an appearance at any time and “steal” some time from moose and landscape photography. As the moose move out to the sage flats, bison move into the south end of the park. Deer and pronghorns begin their annual rut. By late November, bighorns move onto Miller Butte and Trumpeter Swans return to the valley in large numbers. By late December, moose move away from the roads and the bulls lose their antlers, but that’s okay. Swans and Bighorns fill the void. That’s about the same time to start watching for river otters, foxes, and owls again. And so it goes. By late January, the fur on most of the bighorns are beginning to bleach out, yet that’s about the same time some of the mountain goats show up in the Snake River canyon. Berry eating birds like Cedar Waxwings, Pine Grosbeaks, and Bohemian Waxwings often migrate through the valley during the winter months, filling in small voids, or offering a break from the other action. Before long, you look up and snow is melting and the animals begin moving around. A whole new season is ready to change the valley again. You might not recognize it initially, but each season has its own tapestry and it repeats itself with an amazing amount of predictability.

Winter Storm

Back to that “Cold Reality” thing: Okay. If you read that last paragraph, you might think its easy to get images here daily. Well, in some respects it might be. If you look over the Daily Updates pages, you can see I can usually bring home some shots for the blog. And, I should probably note I am usually only out for a little while each day. I like making the blog posts about as much as taking the photos, so if things are slow, I start thinking I should be back at the office wring a new Feature Post.

White Out

Some days are down right miserable in the winter. When the wind is howling and the temperatures are hovering at -10°F, it takes a special kind of dedication to open the door of the vehicle and endure those kinds of winter conditions. On some days, I have more of that kind of dedication in me than others. A little snow falling down is actually a plus. Too much can be a negative. Fairly often, the winter light is flat, gray, and dull. On most of those days, you can’t see the mountains, so there’s limited chances for the massive vista shots. If the light is good, or if there is an animal close, I can endure about anything for a while. I like taking photos of the old barns along Mormon Row. I have thousands of photos of each of them. Once the road is closed, it’s a 3/4 mile snow shoe hike from the parking area to the first barn. I can handle that. But for sunrise shots, that means leaving the vehicle roughly 45-60 minutes earlier, and when it’s -10° or lower, the hike with a tripod and gear is a long one. Throw in some wind and it can be dangerous. This is definitely a cold reality! The Chapel of the Transfiguration is open to visitors in the Winter, but you have to hike in from the main road. Issues there are much the same as hiking into the Mormon Row barns.

Some people make it look easy, but you have to look past that and understand they make it look easy by working at it long and hard. Mother Nature seems to pay off in a big way if you are willing to put in the time. You just never know when you’ll come around a bend and find a red fox standing only 25 yards off the road and will spend the next thirty minutes mousing for you. Winter photography is the season when you have the opportunity to get your most unique images, but you get them at the expense of some cold toes, fingers, ears, and a few days mixed in where nothing seems to want to pan out. There’s always “something” to photograph. It takes a certain discipline to be looking for unique “small shots”, even when you’d like to be getting the “big shots”. It’s amazing how often the latter will emerge while thinking small initially.

People reading my Daily Updates in December of 2014 will recognize the section below. I wrote it mainly for the wildlife viewers, knowing the landscapes pretty much stay in the same place.

Settled into Winter:

Most of the winter months offer similar opportunities for both wildlife and landscapes: Dec: 2014 | Nov: 2013  | Dec: 2013Jan: 2014 .

Suggested “Opportunities”: Right now, here are my top spots to check out. Some will be a bit of a gamble, but they might also pay off in a big way if you hit it right:

Previous Winter Related Posts:

Winter: (after the leaves fall until the snow melts)

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