Snake River Overlook

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Year-Round Iconic View of the Teton Range

Ansel Adams The Tetons and the Snake River

The Tetons and the Snake River:  Ansel Adams (1942)

Snake River Overlook Satellite Map of Snake River Overlook:

Click the link or the image to see a larger image and interactive map via The Photographer’s Ephemeris. Snake River Overlook is visible with a very short walk from the large, well signed pull-out along Highway 89/191. You’ll find it on the GTNP map, too.

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Snake River Overlook

If we could turn the clock back 73 years, we could see the bend of the Snake River as Ansel Adams found it in his 1942 iconic image. Unfortunately, trees have since grown tall enough to obscure much of the river. It is still a breathtaking view whether you have a camera in your hand or go there just to enjoy it!  Ansel had it tougher than we have it now. The highway from Moose Junction to Moran Junction wasn’t built until around 1958. Ansel would have had to drive over rough dirt roads from a spot near present day Lost Creek Ranch. See Early Roads in Grand Teton National Park:

Over my 28+ years of living here, I’ve photographed from roughly the same spot countless times. This page will show quite a few of them!

SRO Alpenglow

Early Morning at Snake River Overlook: I typically think of Snake River Overlook as a sunrise location.

OverlookSunset1_April16

Sunset at Snake River Overlook: Ansel’s image was a sunset capture—along with the image above. Sunset images in the Tetons take a fair amount of luck and usually mean getting home at a very late hour.

Snake River Overlook Moon Set Dec18

Snake River Overlook Pano: In December and January, the moon sets somewhere between the Grand and Mt. Moran. This is one of my favorite locations for panoramic images. It’s possible to capture this shot as a single image with a wide angle lens, but I like to set up and capture multiple images that are later “stitched” into a single panoramic image. Check out: Panoramic Images: Tips for Getting More of the Tetons in a Shot

Web Snake River Overlook Jan18

Cloudless Alpenglow: For my landscape images, I prefer at least a few clouds. There are many times I get to the spot before sunrise, only to have clouds or fog obscuring the entire range. Check out: Alpenglow: Morning’s Fleeting Phenomenon

Web Moon Set at SRO Dec18

On mornings when I am trying to capture the setting full moon, I typically still want a “few” clouds, but still be able to see the moon. Check out: Shooting the October Moon: Tips for Being at the Right Place at the Right Time

Stages of a Sunrise

SRO_StarsNov10

There are several “stages” of a sunrise. For around two hours before sunrise, the night sky goes into what many photographers call the “blue light” period. Stars and clouds are often visible.

Web Moon at SRO Jan17

Alpenglow: At a point about 30 minutes before first light, the sky can turn to a beautiful hue of purple with streaks of magenta and rose.

Alpenglow in Transition

Alpenglow in Transition: The deep purple eventually softens and begins to turn towards a murky gray. I seldom shoot during this period, but this image still had some rose and magenta.

First Light at SRO

First Light on the Peaks: Eventually, the “gray period” passes and I begin to see the first golden glow of morning light.

Web Grand Range First Light Mar16

Fully Lit Teton Range: As the sun rises in the east, the range is lit with golden light. Clouds add to any Teton range scene.

December Sunrise Dec22

White Light: The golden light period usually passes quickly, replaced with neutral white with maybe a touch of amber.

SRO Beginning Shadows

Beginning Shadows: There’s a rock wall along the overlook. At some point in the morning, the rock wall creates an unnatural shadow across the close trees. I can usually handle it just at the tips as seen here, but as the line drops, I typically fold up the tripod and start looking for something else to photograph. I should mention it is possible to hang around and wait until the sun rises enough to drop the shadows to the base of the trees.

If you’ve ever been set up to photograph the Alpenglow period through this fully lit stage, you’d feel the mountains are “blown out”! The light will look bright and uninteresting. At it turns out, the day is just beginning for most tourists—still having breakfast in town.

Other Moods and Comments

SRO December 2014

Some mornings are magical! …others not so much. There’s always a gamble when I get up a couple of hours before first light. Conditions can look promising when heading north, then turn dull and cloudy on the way up. Conversely, I sometimes take a chance when clouds look too thick, only to have a break and light pours over the range.

Web_SRONightJune26_2010

Summer at Snake River Bend can be wonderful! Still, when I look back over my catalog of images, I see that most of them were taken in the Winter. Hmmmm! Actually, I know why. During the Winter months, Snake River Overlook is open—one of the few places along the valley floor where you can get some sort of foreground element. The Mormon Row barns are essentially out of the running with Antelope Flats Road closed. Oxbow Bend is frozen over and the water is low. Schwabacher Landing is totally off limits. So, Snake River Overlook gets a lot of my attention. Days are short, so I don’t have to get up terribly early. The shot above was taken in June, close to the longest days of the year. That means getting up VERY early….something like 4:00 am! In many ways, it can be well worth it. The sun is far to the north. This casts shadows to the left on trees and jagged peaks for much more definition. Springtime shots…well they look much like winter shots. By the time it looks like Spring, I am usually tired of photographing from the spot and am off looking for new locations as the roads reopen for the season.  I have very few Fall images there either. There are almost no aspens or cottonwoods at Snake River Overlook to draw me to the spot in the Fall. I’d probably stop there if we get an early snow storm, but otherwise I am off in other parts of the park with more fall color. Anatomy of a Teton Landscape

July SRO

By late in the summer, much of the snow melts on the Teton Range. They always look great, but I still like snow on them!

Snake River Overlook Mar25

There are some cottonwoods in the river bottom, so if I were to hit it at peak season, this shot might be worth it. Again, I am usually at Oxbow or up on Shadow Mountain during the Fall.

Web Snake River Overlook Jan18

During the Winter months, the Snake River is much less of a player. The flow is cut back considerably back at the Jackson Lake Dam and some of the water that actually does flow through freezes with shelf ice on both sides.

Snake River Overlook Moon2

Timing a setting full moon is relatively easy to do with the aid of all the tools on the Internet. Snake River Overlook via The Photographer’s Ephemera: This page allows me to figure out when and where to go at various times of the year relative to the Grand or Mt. Moran. In the photo above, I was at the right place, but was there a day early. The moon was a big ball of gold. A day later, the moon would be setting roughly 15 minutes later and would be better defined against the Alpenglow sky. But, on that morning, clouds could be covering everything!

Web Moon Over Grand_Oct19

In 2013, I was in the right place, but only a couple of minutes after this image, the moon dipped behind the clouds. The moon event didn’t look too promising at that point.

Web Moon Over Teton Range1_Oct19

Samuel Clemens, (a.k.a. Mark Twain) said, “If you don’t like the weather, just wait a few minutes”. That saying works here. As the moon sank towards the ridge line, clouds thinned and turned pink.

NightTime

This shot was taken on a “near full” moon. On a long exposure, a full moon can light up a night scene to the point it looks like a daylight scene with stars.

Night Time at SRO

Night Time at Snake River Overlook: Without a bright moon, more stars are visible. I chose to keep this image dark to more closely resemble a night sky. Jackson Hole has some of the darkest (least light polluted) skies in the West.

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Most people seem to get drawn into the beauty of the entire scene at Snake River Overlook. I occasionally take my telephoto lenses there and work much tighter.

Photographic Considerations at Snake River Overlook

I currently have a 16.2mpx Nikon D4 and a 35mpx Nikon D800 pair of bodies. Both are full frame. In some of the earlier shots, I was using a DX crop Nikon D300 12mpx body. In most cases, I use the D800 for my landscapes. At Snake River Overlook, I typically carry a 24-70mm lens and a sturdy tripod. I used the same lens when working with my D300 bodies. If I have time, I usually carry a 70-200mm lens down to the wall, even if I don’t use it. For some setting moon shoots, I lug the 200-400mm along, too, but only if the moon is setting very close to the peak of the Grand. I almost always use a tripod for my landscapes, and I think it is absolutely necessary for the very early, low light shots. I have leveling bases on both of my tripods—making it quick and easy to set up for panoramic images.  I usually set the Aperture to F/8 to F/11 and shoot in Aperture Priority at the base ISO 100. (see Digital Camera Diffraction discussions) I use Manual Priority for the night shots. For the panos, I now use the D800 and shoot in “landscape” aspect. It usually takes three to four shots for the stitched panos. When using the D4 or D300, I normally take the shot in “portrait” aspect and it typically takes about 8 to 9 shots. Here’s that link again: Panoramic Images: Tips for Getting More of the Tetons in a Shot

Over the years, I’ve looked for alternative locations for shots at Snake River Overlook. I’ve walked a mile or so in either direction and haven’t found any worthwhile spots. Some people jump the rock wall at the north end and shoot from the knoll just below. I don’t think it helps the angle that much so I quit doing it. Each year, thousands of people take photos at essentially the same two or three spots along the retaining wall. People have been going there during all the years since Ansel took his shot 73 years ago. I don’t know of too many ways of making a shot there that hasn’t been done quite a few times before. Instead, the elements that set one image apart from others are the moods of the light and clouds that day.  I keep going back because there are seldom two days exactly the same. Once in a while, I hope to hit it just right.

It’s possible to drive a mile or so north on the highway and drive down to Deadman’s Bar, then hike down the river for some interesting shots. A float trip down the Snake will also put you in places much less photographed.

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Ansel Adams


Image link: http://www.influx.co.uk/wordpress/blog/ansel-adams-cars/#sthash.DeWBHGtJ.dpbs

Ansel Adams: GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, WYOMING (From the National Archives)

79-AAG-1 The Tetons – Snake River.”
79-AAG-2 Grand Teton,” view from river valley towards snow covered mountains, river in foreground from left to right.
79-AAG-3 Grand Teton
79-AAG-4 Grand Teton
79-AAG-5 Mt. Moran, Teton National Park,” view across river valley toward Mt. Moran.
79-AAG-6 No caption provided by Mr. Adams. [Jackson Lake in foreground, with Teton Range in background, view looking southwest from north end of the lake.]
79-AAG-7 Mt. Moran and Jackson Lake from Signal Hill, [Grand] Teton National Park.
79-AAG-8 Near [Grand] Teton National Park,” roadway, low horizon mountains, clouded sky (2 copies).
79-AAG-9 Tetons from Signal Mountain,” valley, snow-capped mountains, low horizons (2 copies).
79-AAG-10 In [Grand] Teton National Park,” snow covered peak.
79-AAG-11 Grand Teton,” grassy valley, tree covered mountain side and snow covered peaks.

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Collected Best of the Tetons Links From this Page:

If you enjoyed this post, please take a second or two and click one of the Social Media Icons below and share it with the rest of the world! MJ

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February 2015 Daily Updates & Photos for Grand Teton National Park & JH:

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A monthly journal of wildlife reports, scenic opportunities, and tidbits for both photographers and Teton visitors!

Recent Daily Updates Archives:
2015:
Feb: | Jan:
2014: Dec: | Nov:
| Oct: | Sept: | Aug: | July: | June: | May: | Apr: | Mar: | Feb: | Jan:
2013:
Dec: | Nov: | Oct: | Sept: | Aug:

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February Header

February Overview:

Swan PlatformMost of the winter months offer similar opportunities for both wildlife and landscapes: In many years, Mountain Goats start becoming more dependable subjects in February and into March. Red Foxes and Owls seem to appear in random places during this month.  Jan: 2015  Jan: 2014 Feb: 2014 | Dec: 2013. Also check out: The Dead of Winter: The Cold Realities and Exciting Possibilities of Winter Photography in GTNP..

Suggested “Opportunities”: Right now, here are my top spots to check out, especially for wildlife.  Some will be a bit of a gamble, but they might also pay off in a big way if you hit it right:

Important Winter Links

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Oldie But Goodie Post of the Day

The MeetingJanuary 2015 Daily Updates & Photos for Grand Teton National Park & JH: This new February Daily Updates Page won’t have many photos on it for a few days, so click this link to see last month’s entry. Check back regularly to see how the month develops!

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Artists and Sculptors

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Summer SunriseMost Recent Feature Post: Snake River Overlook

Snake River Overlook is open to viewing and photography year-round. It gives you an opportunity to include some foreground elements into a vista view of the Teton Range. The page has a lot of images taken at SRO over years going back to 2008 and includes Ansel Adams’ iconic shot there. I believe you will enjoy the page!

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February 2, 2015

Tagged Mtn. GoatYesterday, friends from Odgen passed back through the canyon on their way home. This morning, Richard Pointius let me know they saw quite a few Mountain Goats in several different locations. I went down today, after being a “home body” yesterday. I found this Nanny near the mouth of the canyon when I first got there. Several of the goats now have either ear tags, collars or both. I could probably remove them in Photoshop but I captured enough good ones today that don’t need it.

It was a good day!

Mountain Goat Amongst Trees

Mountain Goat Amongst Trees:

Mtn. Goat in Rocks

Mtn. Goat in Rocks:

Bald Eagle

Bald Eagle atop Spruce Tree:

Traverse

Traversing Snow Fields:

Mountain Goat on Rocky Ledge

Mountain Goat on Rocky Ledge:

Canyon Comments: It looks like February will be good in the Snake River Canyon this year. I’ll throw these comments out to you if you are planning on going down. I don’t believe the Wyoming Highway Patrol is going to be as lenient this year as in some earlier years. The road is a state highway patrolled by both State Troopers and Lincoln County Sheriffs—its not a park or refuge road! This year, I have been parking in one of the pullouts and walking/hiking to any area I want to photograph. Today, I was parked in a pullout but standing next to the highway. The trooper, with his lights flashing, pulled over and told me to get off the road. No problem! If you are going down to Alpine Junction based on my recommendations at this site, please do so in a safe manner! Without a doubt, this is a potentially dangerous setting. There are many variables including speeding vehicles, loaded semi-trucks not willing to slow down, icy roads, snow plows, limited visibility, people parking illegally ON THE ROAD, wild animals on or near the roads, and photographers that can lose all sense of their safety to get a shot. Even today, instead of moving towards the center line as they passed by, I had a vehicle move closer to the fog line as they sped by and splashed me with water from the road. It looked intentional to me!

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February 1st, 2015 (Superbowl Sunday)

Mtn. Goats - Feb 1, 2012

The Mountain Goats photo above was taken on February 1st, 2014 along the Snake River Canyon near Alpine, WY. They have been seen fairly often in January this year. Click the link to get more information and maps of the area.

DowneyWoodpecker

Downey Woodpecker: The weather report called for clear skies for this morning. I looked out at 6:00 am and saw clear skies. I stayed home, but that was probably a mistake. By sunrise, there were light clouds turning orange all over the place. No chance to hit a home run if still sitting in the dugout! Oh well! I put out some food, then set up a couple of strobes in the back yard. Time for some experimental photography! The shot on the left was captured with an orange gel over the SB-910 strobe. The White Balance was set to a Custom setting of roughly 4750K and the scene was slightly underexposed. The settings gave me a cool background with a warm subject. The image on the right was captured a split second later, but the strobe had not had time to recharge, so it didn’t flash. The actual image was equally blue in Lightroom to the one on the left, but I used the Temperature slider to warm it back up.

Clark's Nutcracker

Clark’s Nutcracker: Shot with a bit of fill flash.

Mountain Chickadee

Mountain Chickadee:

Downey Woodpecker

Downey Woodpecker: I photographed the male Downey earlier in the day. This one is a female with natural light.

White-breasted Nuthatch

White-breasted Nuthatch: I can usually hear this bird coming in. It sounds somewhat like a cheap “squeak toy”. Like the Chickadees, they don’t stay still long.

Hairy Woodpecker

Hairy Woodpecker: Also a female. They are considerably larger than the Downey Woodpeckers.

Skies are getting cloudier with possible snow flurries by late evening.

February One-On-One Photo Excursions: I have several openings available for February.  Click Here to see last year’s February 2014 Daily Updates to get an idea of what you might see here. You can also book for March and other months. I have a new Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD Lens on order. Anyone with a current Nikon DSLR taking one of my Excursions will be able to use the lens on the trip. (should be here soon) The lens has been getting a lot of positive press. I am purchasing mine from Perfect Light Camera and Supply in Idaho Falls after hearing his positive reviews following an Africa trip.

Upcoming Events:

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Focus Stacking: Increased Depth of Field by Combining Multiple Images

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Not Just For Macro Photography!

Humans can see with incredible “depth of field”. Cameras can do a pretty good job—especially if stopped down and when combined with short lenses. Telephoto lenses, on the other hand, often struggle with an extended depth of field. Likewise, macro photography can require numerous steps in micro fractions of an inch increments.

In reality, viewers of photographic images often “forgive” a little out of focus in the immediate foreground if major elements or subjects are sharp. And of course, we can blur or go out of focus in areas on purpose for a creative expression.

Luckily, Lightroom and Photoshop can team up to help us out on special shots. “Focus Stacking” allows a photographer to focus on two or more zones in multiple photos, then merge them into a single image. Best of all, it is relatively easy. Photoshop does all the work! Macro photographers sometimes shoot dozens or even 50 or more images to get one blended composite. If you are into this kind of photography, check out this site: How to Focus-Stack Macro Images using Photoshop.

This page at Best of the Tetons will illustrate how you can add this little trick to your skill set for landscapes. Similar to HDR sets, Focus Stack sets are easy enough to shoot in the field, even if you don’t end up needing the extra frames.

Two Zones

Two Zones: I typically set up and shoot with a tripod for my landscape images. It helps on a project like this one. In a nutshell, I focused on the fence for one shot and on the barn for the next one. To be specific, I set my camera to single point, single servo focusing, then did a quick composition in the viewfinder. I set the focus point on the barn, then temporarily recomposed so that focus point was on the green area of the scene (on the close fence). I pressed my Auto Focus lock button (or hold the shutter button down half way for most people) and recomposed to the original composition. With the AF Lock still pressed, I captured the first image with the sharp fence. I released the AF Lock and pressed the shutter again without moving the camera. For the second shot, the focus point was back on the barn. Click – Click! For some shots, it might be necessary to capture the scene with three or four images. I don’t think it was necessary for this image, but I could have made one more capture on the middle, barbed wire fence line. (Click on the image to see it a little larger)

Stacked

Stacked: Here’s the stacked image. These images were taken in 2013 with a Nikon D800 and a Nikon 70-200mm lens at 160mm. The aperture was set to F/8. This shot took only an extra minute or two at the time of capture, then roughly 10 minutes in LR and Photoshop. (Click on the image to see it a little larger)

If you are interested in the steps for actually creating the blended image…read on!

Beginning in Lightroom:

Two Images

In Lightroom, I selected the two images (Shift-Select), then did my normal adjustments to one of them. This image also had a bit of cropping to help cut down the size for the web pages.

SyncSettings

Synchronize Settings: In the lower right corner of the Develop tab, there’s a button labeled Sync Settings. Once clicked, this box comes up. Click the Check All button and then the Synchronize button. At this point, both images have the same treatments and adjustments applied to them.

Off to Photoshop!

Open as Layers in PS

While still in Lightroom and with both images still selected, click Photo>Edit In>Open as Layers in Photoshop.

Two Layers

In Photoshop, you will see the two images, each on a separate layer.

For this screen grab, I moved the Layers tab to the lower left corner of my screen so I could include the document size info. Each of these two images are 35 megs, creating a 70 meg file (this isn’t a big deal for a two image file, but it can be for someone building a 40 shot macro composite.) In this image, only the top layer is selected. I Shift-Clicked the second layer to select both for the next step.

Auto Align Layers

With both layers highlighted (selected), go to the Edit pull down and click Auto-Align Layers.

Auto Align Second Screen

This box will appear after clicking Auto-Align Layers. The default is Auto. Click OK. The computer will process for a few seconds. This step is usually necessary even if on a tripod.

Auto Blend Layers

Once the Auto-Align Layers step is completed, and with both layers still selected, click Edit> Auto-Blend Layers.

Auto Blend 2nd Screen

This box will appear. Make sure Stack Images is clicked and Seamless Tones and Colors are checked (this is usually set as default) and click OK.

Auto Blend Layers Tab

For my 5000 pixel, two frame image, it took my computer about 30 seconds to process the Auto-Blend step. Photoshop does all the work! It creates the layer masks as seen here. For most projects, all I have to do is flatten and save the image with a new file name.

Try one! While including a bunch of screen grabs might make this appear more complicated than it should, the steps are actually quick and straight forward. You’d only have to do a couple to get the hang of it. I should also mention you don’t really need to start in Lightroom. You can open two images and combine them into a two layer Photoshop document, then run the Auto-Align and Auto-Blend commands. I like the option of syncing the two images in Lightroom.

Focus Stack

Another Example of Focus Stacking: I took this image using a Nikon 200-400mm lens at a long distance from the subjects. Much like the earlier example, I focused on the fence in one image and the barn in the other.

Box L Ranch

Box L Ranch: Results of the two blended layers.

CamRanger

Focus Stack

A few weeks ago, I did a few test shots of objects in the kitchen so I could try out the Focus Stacking feature built into a CamRanger. For this shot, I focused on the closest part of the orange, then set the CamRanger to do a total of 10 shots. It automatically stepped the focus deeper into the scene—without needing to touch the camera again.

Focus Stack Flattened

I initially captured 10 images with the aid of the CamRanger, but for this example, I skipped every other one and let Lightroom and Photoshop build this image with only five of the images. The steps are the same as the barn examples above, but instead of just two layers in Photoshop, I had five. Macro photographers, as seen in the link, deal with much, much more controlled steps than I did here. Here’s the link again: How to Focus-Stack Macro Images using Photoshop. They did 46 shots to capture a single snowflake! For those kinds of shots, you may need the specialty rails and attachments found at Really Right Stuff.

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The National Elk Refuge & Miller Butte:

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A Mecca for Winter Wildlife Photography.

Ram in the HeadlightsLocated on the north edge of the Town of Jackson, the National Elk Refuge offers unique wildlife viewing opportunities during the winter months. By almost all standards, visitor access to the refuge is very limited. Of the 24,700 acres, visitors are confined to 10 feet either side of roughly four miles of roadway during the winter. Visitors are asked to park only in designated pullouts, of which there are currently very few. Work on the roadway is scheduled for the summer of 2015, including adding additional pullouts and expanding the sizes of several of the existing pullouts. Along the highway, visitors are told to pull off the highway only in one of the three or four designated pullouts and are told NOT to cross the bike path and approach the fence. I guess I could identify the issues above as the “negatives” at the refuge. It’s a refuge, not a park!

The positives far outweigh the inconveniences of limited parking, limited access, and narrow (sometimes slick) roads. The positives, of course, are the animals you might see there. The short list would include elk, bighorn sheep, pronghorns, and bison for the prey animals. Predators and scavengers would include wolves, coyotes, mountain lions, foxes, and a variety of raptors and birds. You might not expect to see all of the animals in these lists on a single drive-thru, but you “could” see several of them. That’s the beauty! You simply never know what you might find there from hour to hour, day to day, week to week or month to month. I often go back two and three times in a day!

Summer and Winter: Two worlds.

National Elk Refuge

During the summer months, the National Elk Refuge could appear barren of animals. In a nutshell, you will likely travel “through” the Refuge on your way “to” something else. A few additional roads allow access to areas of the National Forest, such as Curtis Canyon and hiking trails to Goodwin Lake, Sheep Mountain, Mount Jackson and so forth. As in the winter, visitors are confined to a few feet either side of the roadways as they pass through the Refuge. Crews plant and irrigate fields on the refuge for forage for wintering elk, bison, and now pronghorns.

Flat Creek on the National Elk Refuge

Fly fishing is allowed in a section along the highway from August 1st to October 31st, but only fishermen with licenses and gear are permitted to be on the refuge. In the late fall, hunting is allowed for elk and bison in some areas. Otherwise, regular tourists cannot mingle off the roadways. Elk and most of the game animals will have moved off the refuge and into their summer ranges, leaving the range mostly uninhabited. Small critters like ground squirrels, voles, gophers, and chipmonks may be taken by Northern Harriers, Red-tailed hawks, Burrowing Owls, American Kestrels, Eagles and so forth.

National Elk Refuge

By late November, snows in the high country start pushing some of the large game animals to the Refuge. I start looking for Bighorn Sheep around Miller Butte on Thanksgiving. Elk start filtering in around the same time, but the big herds typically show up later. Predators and Scavengers follow the prey animals. I’ve seen wolves on the National Elk Refuge, but I’ve never seen them up close. Whether you see them or not, just know they are around! Wolves and other predators follow the prey animals out of the refuge in the Spring. Kills by the wolves, along with natural winter deaths, bring in the smaller scavengers of fur and feather. Mountain Lions have been observed on the Refuge over the years.

Bighorns and the Beginning of Winter

The Chase

Around Thanksgiving, I start cruising the Refuge watching for the first of the Bighorn Sheep. Early snows prod them to move out of the high country and onto the slopes of Miller Butte. By the first week of December, I expect to see reasonable numbers of both ewes and rams. The rut usually begins around the middle of December and continues until the middle of January. This page from Best of the Tetons contains quite a bit more information and lots of photos: Bighorns of Miller Butte. The page has a map showing the roads and pullouts along Miller Butte.

Elk

Mass of Elk

Elk migrate from long distances, including Yellowstone, to winter at the National Elk Refuge. I overheard a biologist say there are roughly 5,500 elk on the refuge with additional elk around the edges. You can check the refuge’s official site for more specifics: National Elk Refuge. When driving out onto the Refuge, expect to see mostly cows and calves. The big bulls seldom hang close to the roadways, but you still might see one mixed in. For the best view of wintering elk, consider taking the sleigh ride. Sleigh Ride on the National Elk Refuge: It might be the best deal in town! Bulls can occasionally be seen on the ridge line of Miller Butte. Wolves on the refuge can greatly impact where the elk and other animals are grazing on any particular day.

Bison

Bison Herd

Traditionally, the wintering bison hang in the northeast section of the Refuge and are not visible to the winter tourists. Occasionally, a heard will move to the southern section and even south of the road. Wildlife officials may haze them back off the road for the safety of tourists, hikers, bikers, and photographers. They are quick and dangerous! Watch for them in the last mile of the winter road section.

Pronghorns

Elk and Pronghorns

During the winter months, Pronghorns traditionally move from the Teton valley to areas south of here—such as Big Piney, Daniel, and Marbleton. Over the past few winters, a small herd began staying in the valley. Now that herd seems to be growing in size. I counted over 45 recently along the roadway near Miller Butte. They also appear to be becoming more tolerant of the passing vehicles, hikers, and bikers.

Mule Deer

Hillside Mule Deer

Hillside Mule Deer: I’ve seen a few mule deer actually inside the fence in the National Elk Refuge, but most are along the road and hillside West of the highway. Other than some of the commercial businesses along the road, the National Elk Refuge owns much of the land. Deer and Elk can be seen grazing along either side of the road early in the mornings and on the hillside after first light. You may also see some of them by making the drive up to the National Museum of Wildlife Art.

Wolves

Wolves

Recently, the newspaper reported two packs of wolves roaming the National Elk Refuge and making kills. I’ve seen them on the hillsides before and was able to hear them howl, but I’ve never been there as they chase game into close proximity to the roads. Maybe I will be in the right spot at the right time and capture some of it.

Coyotes

Coyote

Coyotes are more common on the National Elk Refuge. Most stay off the roads and scavenge on winter kills or feed on the leftovers from a wolf kill.

Foxes

Red Fox

Red Foxes aren’t that common on the Refuge, but I’ve seen them several times just south of the Miller House.

Otters

River Otter

River Otters occasionally cruise Flat Creek in search of small fish. I’ve photographed them on numerous occasions from the observation platform just north of the visitor’s center.

Swans

Squabble

Trumpeter Swans and an occasional Tundra Swan can often be seen along Flat Creek. Check out this Feature Post: Trumpeter Swans: A Family of Swans Along Flat Creek in the Summer of 2014. During the winter, much of Flat Creek can freeze over for short periods, but the Swans and other waterfowl quickly return when sections of the waterway open up again. Flat Creek runs through much of the National Elk Refuge.

Eagles

Golden Eagle

Bald Eagles and Golden Eagles can be seen on the National Elk Refuge at any time of the year, but are more plentiful during the winter months. Winter kills bring in the scavengers of all kinds. Watch for Ravens swarming, then look for nearby eagles, foxes, coyotes and magpies. During the winter months, watch for Rough-legged hawks hovering around the valley floor. In the summer, watch for Red-tailed Hawks and Northern Harriers. I’ve seen photos of Burrowing Owls taken on the Refuge.

Scenic Opportunities

Miller House with Fog Bank

The Historic old Miller House sits in the middle of the National Elk Refuge. It always makes a good subject for photography. The house and areas immediately surrounding it are closed to human activity during the winter months.

National Elk Refuge

Sleeping Indian (AKA Sheep Mountain) rests on the far east side of the valley. Check out this earlier Feature Post for more locations: Sleeping Indian: A Lesser Photographed JH Icon

Scenic Comments: I typically don’t go to the National Elk Refuge “thinking landscapes”. Wildlife is usually higher on my priorities. If the light is hitting the Miller House or Sleeping Indian in a special way, I will always stop to photograph it. Access is limited, as I mentioned earlier, so we must shoot only from the roadways. A couple of distracting power lines run through the refuge and the angles are just not designed for photographers, especially while on the Refuge Road. From the highway, many more possibilities are available to viewers and photographers. On the North side, the National Elk Refuge and Grand Teton National Park are separated by the Gros Ventre River. Visitors can roam the north side of the river, but cannot cross the river to the Refuge side.

Curtis Canyon

On May 1st, the roads into the interior of the Refuge open back up, allowing people to cross into the National Forests. On that morning, the road is packed with antler hunters heading into the wilds outside the refuge. Additional photographic opportunities can be found by driving up the Curtis Canyon Road.

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