Specimen Ridge Along the Canyon Rim

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Elevation Change for Specimen Ridge Along the Canyon Rim

Elevation change for Specimen Ridge Along the Canyon Rim
Elevation profile and route courtesy of the HAZ Tracks App

Distance: 2 miles (one way)
Difficulty: Easy
Best time of year: Spring, Summer, Fall

The Specimen Ridge Trail is a lengthy 18.8 miles long trail that starts by the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River and travels nearly the entire length of the Lamar Valley high above. Along the way you pass the canyon, as mentioned, as well as Amethyst Mountain, amethyst and opal deposits, a petrified forest, and a plethora of wildlife. For this post, I only hiked the first 2 miles, but hope to have the full trail documented in the next season or two at most.

The trail begins at the Yellowstone River Picnic Area, which can make parking tricky depending on the time of day you arrive. The trailhead is easily found at the south end of the parking area and begins a gradual ascent up the canyon’s rim. Along the way, excellent views of Junction Butte on the other side of the road come into view. Those with keen eyes could possibly spot wolves or grizzlies on the butte, among other wildlife (especially if there are a lot of cars below also looking).

The trail crests the ridge, and from this point on, it’s all pretty easy going with some incredible scenery of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. An unmaintained trail heads back in the direction you came from via the ridge. You can take this on your way back if you’d like to see a bit more of the canyon and follow a steep (probably older) wildlife trail will bring you back down to the picnic area. The main trail begins to head southward, up the canyon.

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Different views looking straight down into the canyon at times make this one of the slower two mile hikes, despite the trail being easy-going. Most people will be distracted by the many different vantage points and jaw-dropping vistas looking up and down the canyon. It doesn’t take much hiking before the Calcite Springs stop along the highway on the other side of the canyon comes into view with people high up on the edge of a protected cliff. Farther up the trail a view of the Tower Falls area comes into view as well.

Small ups and downs are found along the trail as it gradually climbs higher, ultimately reaching the base of Specimen Ridge where it joins with another trail and begins its ascent upward. For the purposes of this short hike, this makes for a good turnaround point with a great view up into a relatively open area of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

To see more images of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and Specimen Ridge, check out my Yellowstone National Park Gallery here.

Getting there: From the Tower/Roosevelt Junction, head toward the Lamar Valley for 1.25 miles, crossing over the Yellowstone River and turning right into the Yellowstone River Picnic Area. The trailhead is located at the south end of the picnic area.

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Wyoming’s Fighting Stallions ~ Iconic Symbols of the American West.

Wild Mustangs roam the prairies and sage covered ranges in 16 (plus) areas of Wyoming. The Wyoming Bureau of Land Management oversees 16 Horse Management Areas (HMA) scattered throughout the state. The combined areas total over 3,600,000 acres and host roughly 3,700 horses. The Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range straddles the northern Wyoming boundary near Lovell, WY, but is not listed on the Wyoming BLM HMA map.

Bands of Mustangs

In 1971 Congress Created the Wild Free-Roaming Horses and Burros Act. The act recognized horse’s place in American history and set aside areas in many states for them to continue to roam. Wild horses, or mustangs, can be a hot topic for some. Opponents suggest they are an invasive species, taking up space on public lands, and have no rights to be protected. Mustang lovers take the polarized viewpoint and fight equally hard to protect them. If you are so inclined, check out Mustang – Wikipedia. The link covers the issues fairly well.

Black and Gray

I tend to fall on the Mustang lover side of the issue. Very few of the mustangs we might find today have any bloodlines that can be traced to horses brought back to the Americas by the early Spaniards. Instead, our wild horses are more properly defined as feral horses — descended from once-domesticated horses. Some of today’s horses may have been introduced into the American West by trappers, traders, settlers, and gold miners, and those horses probably intermixed with descendants of the 16th century Spanish horses.

Black and Gray

Over 50+ years, the Mustangs we see in our HMAs have reverted to their wild ways — and that’s where I come into the scene.

Pinto

A Horse is a Horse of Course: A wild Mustang looks essentially the same as any horse you might see grazing in pastures along most roads in the U.S. At least for me, the two aspects that distinguish them from domestic horses are the dramatic backdrop of their surroundings and the fighting behavior of the stallions.

Fighting Stallions

Herd Dynamics: I’ve been photographing the wild horses for quite a few years now. My earliest digital shots were taken in 2006 at Rock Springs, WY. I became immediately hooked! Wild horses are unlike any of the large animals I see here in the Tetons. A herd can consist of 75 or more animals, made up of small bands consisting of a stallion and three to five mares, some with offspring. Occasionally, a stallion will be content with only one mare, while others manage to hold on to eight to ten mares. Around the edges, satellite stallions watch for an opening to steal a mare or two of their own.

Running Stallions

A Band’s Stallion must constantly run off the pesky challengers. Unlike bison, moose, elk and deer that pair up or gather harems during the fall rut, mustangs stallions maintain their bands year round. Stallions tolerate a young stallion with his band until they become old enough to challenge him.

Biting Stallions

Mares usually drop their foals in May or June and go back into “season” within around nine days. As a result, May and June are the active months with stallions fighting and chasing off challengers. All images on this page were taken on a single trip to McCullough Peaks HMA in mid May of 2015.

Fighting Pintos

Watching Paint Dry: The horses spend much of their day grazing on grasses mixed in with the sagebrush. It’s usually easy to fill card after card with individual horses, standing or grazing. Occasionally, a mare will graze to within feet of me. Without a lot of notice, two stallions posture for a few seconds and then rear up to kick or bite a nearby stallion. Action can be intense yet sometimes very short lived. Action is often more predictable near the water holes.

Rearing Stallion

Most stallions are covered with bite marks and scars. The older stallions have more of each. Mares are often smooth and clean. Neither will have ever felt the tug of a comb or brush, nor will have ever worn a horseshoe.

Fighting Bays

The Wild Horse Topic is Complicated: Congress created the act that protects “wild horses”. After over 50 years of roaming their allotted ranges, they are truly wild in nature, regardless of their linage. All you have to do is spend a day with them to understand that fact. Wild horses have few predators. If left alone, their populations can double in three or four years, and without regular roundups, they could graze themselves out of their ranges. The “gathers” put horses in the BLM’s holding facilities faster than they can be adopted, taxing the BLM’s budgets. The sometimes brutal nature of the gathers draws public scrutiny and the attention of news media. To complicated matters, the BLM lands allocated for the horses are designated as “multi-use” lands —sometimes leased to sheep herders and cattle ranchers. Horses must compete on the leased grazing lands. I have yet to visit a Wyoming HMA that anyone would consider “prime lands”. Instead, most of them are on large tracts of meager, dry sagebrush flats. Year round food is limited and water supplies are even less dependable. Lawsuits by both sides are constant.

The act that protects the animals also puts them in jeopardy.

“To promote healthy conditions on the range, the BLM determines what it calls the Appropriate Management Level (AML), which is the number of wild horses and burros that can thrive in balance with other public land resources and uses. Wild horses and burros that exceed AML (which is 26,715) are to be removed from the range, in accordance with the 1971 law, as amended.” Source: Wild Horse and Burro Quick Facts – Bureau of Land Management

Once a herd’s Appropriate Management Level is exceeded, the BLM is required to gather and remove excess horses. Like I said, the topic is complicated.

The Invisible Backdrop: If you to scroll back up the page and view each image again, the preceding section might change the way you view them. Politics and lawsuits are constantly at play, yet the horses on the range have no knowledge of any of it. Stallions fight to hold on to their small group of mares and foals from young stallions willing to fight (at times) until one of them is hurt. Unlike lions that kill the offspring of their defeated predecessors, stallions adopt all foals into its new band willingly and will fight to protect them. Young stallions often assemble with aging or defeated stallions until they can recover. Once they see a hint of weakness in another band stallion, they begin their new challenges. To a passerby, the wild horses on the range might appear like other domesticated horses along the highway, but that would be far from accurate!

Stallion on the Run

If you are interested in seeing Wild Mustangs, do a few Internet searches on the topic and click on the links at the bottom of this post. Information is plentiful and readily available. My favorite Wyoming HMAs are the McCullough Peaks area (outside Cody, WY) and Little Colorado / White Mountain area (outside Rock Springs, WY). Both are roughly 190 miles from Jackson. A four wheel drive vehicle with good tires is recommended. The areas are remote and primitive, so go prepared with water and snacks and a full tank of gas. Many areas have cell phone service if you get into trouble. The map below identifies all 16 Wyoming HMAs and the links under the map takes you to a specific page for each area.

WY BLM Map

Wyoming HMA Map

Adobe Town  |  Antelope Hills  |  Conant Creek  |  Crooks Mountain  |  Dishpan Butte  |  Divide Basin  |  Fifteenmile  |  Green Mountain  |  Little Colorado  |  Lost Creek  |  McCullough Peaks  |  Muskrat Basin  |  Rock Creek  |  Salt Wells  |  Stewart Creek  |  White Mountain

 That will leave a mark

Likely to Leave Another Mark: All of these images were taken in May of 2015 at McCullough Peaks. I’ve been there many times and know the area fairly well now. You can pick up a map of most areas at the local BLM offices and you can learn a lot by simply viewing Google Maps for an area. Water holes and streams play an important part in the horse’s daily activities, so look for and find them. I’ve never found these mustangs to be aggressive towards humans, but be sure to use caution when in the field. I’ve heard of a few stallions willing to chase photographers back to their vehicles. I went back to the same area in October, but found almost no fighting between stallions. I’ve been there in the winter, hoping to get dramatic fighting scenes against the snow covered sage, but they appeared to be content to graze the day away. Over the past few years, the BLM has been darting the mares with PZP to inhibit reproduction. That seems to be working, as there have been very few foals on the ranges.

Snaking the Mares

The title on this page is defined as Wyoming’s Fighting Stallions. Most of what happens daily is well orchestrated and fairly predictable. A band stallion will always stand between his mares and a potential younger stallion threat. He moves his mares away from the threat by “snaking” them to a safer area, but will turn and confront a chasing stallion. Sometimes, a little posturing is all it takes. Other times, biting and kicking is required to settle the dispute. Still, most of the day is spent lazily grazing before heading to water.

Image Comments: Images on this page were taken with either a Nikon D800 or D4 and a Tamaron 150-600mm lens.

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Norris Geyser Basin

Porcelain Basin

Elevation Change at the Norris Geyser Basin

Elevation change for the Norris Geyser Basin
Elevation profile and route courtesy of the HAZ Tracks App

Distance: Varies: < 1 mile or up to 3 miles
Difficulty: Easy
Best time of year: Year-round

The Norris Geyser Basin should be high on everyone’s list of sights to see in Yellowstone, or at least part of it. It’s not only the hottest geyser basin in the park, but it’s also home to the world’s tallest active geyser, Steamboat Geyser. Unfortunately, eruption times for Steamboat are completely unpredictable, so if you catch it erupting, count yourself as one of the luckiest visitors to Yellowstone.

The path from the parking area will take you past a Yellowstone Association Bookstore and then to a small museum. A pop-in to the museum is a good idea before starting on the trail so you can have a better appreciation for what you’re about to see, whereas visiting the bookstore on your way out will make sure any unanswered questions you have get answered thoroughly, or will provide you with more activities and trivia.

My preferred route is to save the best for last and to explore the whole system. To do this, from the museum, head back out toward where you came in and make a right. This will bring you down a trail where you first past Emerald Spring, a beautiful green pool that stands out remarkably from the green of the trees around it thanks to sulfur in the water. Just past Emerald Pool is the enormous Steamboat Geyser, if you’re lucky enough to see it. If you have the time, you can sit and wait for a little while and hopefully see a much smaller eruption from it. Smaller eruptions tend to be a bit more frequent, but just as unpredictable. There’s an upper platform for those feeling optimistic, whereas the main boardwalk will also continue past it.

Emerald Pool

The trail then winds downward to Cistern Spring, a colorful hot spring thriving with both bacteria and algae near its edges to give it incredible color.

Tip: If you see Cistern Spring’s water receding, head back up to Steamboat Geyser! The two are linked and an eruption at Steamboat Geyser will drain Cistern Spring.

The trail also forks at Cistern Spring. Right will bring you on a shortcut through the Back Basin Loop. Those short on time can head that way. For those with the time to see more, there are some fantastic features waiting to the left.

Around a few turns is Echinus Geyser, tucked away at the back end of the trail system. It’s one of the oddest and unique geysers in the park. It’s the largest acid-geyser in the world, most of them found in the Norris Geyser Basin, but at the same time, its eruption times have varied drastically in recent decades. It was quite active in the 1990s, but has seemed to calm down since then. With each eruption, a shower of iron, arsenic, manganese, and aluminum rain down on the area surrounding the source, creating the unique formations and colors you see around it. Activity has been fairly low in recent years, so once again, if you get to see it erupt, you are very lucky! …provided you’re a safe distance from the water.

Echinus Geyser

After meandering down from Echinus Geyser, you’re brought past a number of scenic and interesting formations, Puff ‘n’ Stuff Geyser being one of them, and eventually winding up at Green Dragon Spring. The sulfur rich water and steam have left the cave stained yellow, making the water appear green. For those that have been to the Mud Volcano trail, this will be very reminiscent of the Dragon’s Mouth Spring, with more color but less sound.

The trail continues through some more scenic features and then passes around Porkchop Geyser. There’s a unique history here. In 1985 the geyser began to constantly erupt for over four years until it finally blew itself apart in the fall of 1989. Rocks were sent flying over 200 feet away! Now, it’s a quiet hot spring surrounded by remnants of its disastrous explosion.

Past Porkchop Geyser is the colorful but simple, Pearl Geyser, and beyond that is Vixen Geyser, which shoots a needle of water up in the air quite regularly. It’s worth a stop for a couple of minutes to see it in action.

Vixen Geyser

Minute Geyser is just a bit farther up the trail beyond the shortcut trail from Vixen Geyser and is a sad testament to how poorly the park was treated in its early days. Early visitors clogged the geyser with rocks (among other things) that have now left a remarkable geyser dormant. It used to erupt every 60 seconds to heights of 50 feet. It’s now nearly inactive, though its eastern vent does still produce some activity.

Beyond Minute Geyser, the trail begins to head back up toward the museum and main area. Along the way, you’re teased with views of the Porcelain Basin through the trees. Like I mentioned earlier, going this route saves the best for last.

Head left at the junction to be brought down toward the Porcelain Basin. Along the way downward is the Black Growler Steam Vent, a fumarole that is constantly ejecting scalding steam into the air, and accompanied by Ledge Geyser, a rarely erupting geyser that actually shoots water outward rather than upward because of its unique angle.

Just beyond Ledge Geyser is a fork in the trail leading off to the right. Following that will lead you to a view that can easily make you feel like you’re on another world entirely. Passing Hurricane Vent on your right, continue just past another fork (which will loop you back around to the top of the walk you just started) for an incredible view of the Porcelain Springs. This is a massive area of constantly changing terrain and bright white geyserite deposits covering the landscape. What initially sounded like wind in the trees or lots of highway traffic can now be seen as intense fumarole and hot spring activity below. The view stretches for hundreds and hundreds of yards with dome mountain rising above the trees on the other end. “Siliceous sinter” is responsible for the milky color (and the name) of many of the springs below.

Porcelain Basin

From here, you can head back toward the main trail until you’re back on the loop you started prior to the detour. The trail loops past many other hot springs and sparkling features coated with colorful bacteria before winding around to Crackling Lake, a colorful blue and green lake with many popping and hissing sounds that gave it its name.

Continue up the trail back to the main area where you can pass through the museum again (this time to put it all into perspective) and into the bookstore if you wish to further your education.

Getting there: From the Madison Junction, head north on the main highway for 13.3 miles until you reach the Norris Junction. Make a left turn and follow the road into the parking area. Look for the walkway on the west end of the parking lot.

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November 2015 Daily Updates & Photos for Grand Teton National Park & JH: A Monthly Journal

“November is a “sneaky” month — loaded with photographic possibilities!”

Daily Updates Archives:
2015: Nov:Oct: | Sept: | Aug: | July: | June: | May: | Apr: | Mar: | Feb: | Jan:
2014: Dec: | Nov: | Oct: | Sept: | Aug: | July: | June: | May: | Apr: | Mar: | Feb: | Jan:
2013: Dec: | Nov: | Oct: | Sept: | Aug:

Welcome to the November Journal page!  The links above should give you a great idea of what to expect in any month around Jackson Hole. Additionally, click the link below to get a quick overview of each of the 12 months.

Monthly Overviews for JH / GTNP .

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November 2, 2015 :

New Feature Post:

Wyoming’s Fighting Stallions ~ Iconic Symbols of the American West. This new page contains lots of action photos, some general information about wild mustangs, maps and links. Check it out!

Fighting Pintos

I jumped up before sunrise today anticipating going out on another gray day. Instead, I finished a new Feature Post I started yesterday about the stallions at McCullough Peak Wild Horse Management Area near Cody.

Afternoon in the Great White North:

Moose In Snow

Moose In Snow: These two bulls were sparring near the Gros Ventre Road during an afternoon snow squall. I saw additional bull moose near Ditch Creek, along the Moose-Wilson Road, and just south of hte Gros venter Bridge on the Highway. D810 and Tamron 150-600mm lens. 

Homestead in Snow

Homestead in Snow:  Taken from the Antelope Flats Road. D810 and Tamron 150-600mm lens. 

Beaver Crossing Dam

Beaver Crossing Dam: Taken at Schwabacher Landing.  D810 and Tamron 150-600mm lens. 

Beaver with Willows

Beaver with WillowsD810 and Tamron 150-600mm lens. 

Beaver Pond

Beaver Pond with Afternoon SnowD810 and Tamron 150-600mm lens. 

One-On-One Excursions Openings: I have an opening for most dates in November. The trips are designed to help people learn to use their DSLR cameras and help photographers find some of GTNP’s nice shooting locations. Click the link for more information. (Golden Era Studios / Mike R. Jackson is an Authorized Permittee of the National Park Service and the National Elk Refuge.)

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November 1, 2015 :

Broken Paddles

Bull Moose in Ditch Creek: D810 and Tamron 150-600mm lens. 

Settling into Winter:

Most of the winter months offer similar opportunities for both wildlife and landscapes: Nov: 2014 |  Dec 2014:Jan: 2014 | Jan: 2015. The first part of November should resemble the last part of October: October 2015:

Suggested “Opportunities: Right now, here are my top spots to check out. Some will be a bit of a gamble, but they might also pay off in a big way if you hit it right:

  • Flat Creek Observation Deck: Look for Swans, Geese, and Ducks.
  • Boyles Hill Swan Pond & Swans Along Flat Creek:
  • Miller Butte (after Thanksgiving): Look for Bighorns and a herd of around 50 Pronghorns.
  • Ditch Creek Road: Look for Moose, elk and flying bullets. Wear orange!
  • Kelly Area: Look for Mule Deer at the edges of town and around the Shane Cabins.
  • Alpine Junction: Watch for Mountain Goats. near the mouth of the canyon.

Important Road Closures: 

  • Inner Park Loop Road from Taggart Lake trail head parking area to Signal Mountain Lodge.
  • Moose-Wilson Road from Death Canyon road to Granite Canyon trail head parking area.
  • Mormon Row from the south homestead to just north of Gros Ventre Road.
  • South Entrance into Yellowstone.

Locked Gate

Moose-Wilson Road Comments: The first three miles of the Moose-Wilson Road is still open. In fact, it stays open all winter! This three mile section has always been the most productive section of the road with possibilities of Owls, Elk, Pine Martens, Foxes, Coyotes, Moose, Deer, Ravens, Magpies, Beavers and so forth. Many of the big game animals leave the area once the snow builds up to several feet in depth.

Snake River Moose

Snake River Moose: Taken near the Snake River Bridge at Moose Junction. D810 and Tamron 150-600mm lens. 

Moose in River Bottom

Moose in River Bottom: Taken in Ditch Creek. D810 and Tamron 150-600mm lens. 


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